Tomorrow I leave for the States for two weeks to spend time with my dear friend, Kathy, who is celebrating her 50th birthday (although she only looks 20!). While I'm gone, my hubby will watch over the renovations being made on our "new" apartment.
Yes, we're moving after only six weeks to an unfurnished apartment which is one-third the rent of our current condo. We now live in what is called "The Gringo Palace" and when you get off the elevator you are met with "Howdy, where are y'all from?" instead of "Hola, como estas?" There are so many Americans arriving each day that it doesn't even feel like we're in a foreign country until we hit the streets!
You would think that after all the moves we've made (33 in 35 years ) that moving would not be on my top ten list, but since we only have four suitcases it's no big deal. The rennovations will be complete upon my return -- just in time for my 55th birthday!
I will try to report on my trip in the States, but if not...hasta pronto!
Until nexxt time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Monday, July 26, 2010
Reflections
It's been a little over six weeks since we first arrived in Cuenca -- our new home. And today, I reflected on what this new life change has meant for us (the good and the bad!).
It's not an easy decision to leave family and friends, travel 2,800 miles, learn a new language and experience a new culture unless you're really sure it's what you're supposed to be doing.
Last week, I received several e-mails from readers who asked me to be honest about what this change has meant for us.
But as with all of life, we take the good with the bad and I must say that there's so much to be thankful for here in Cuenca: low cost of living, perpetual spring, lots of sunshine with scattered showers to make things green, a wonderfully diverse and caring culture, great food, fireworks every night, amazing healthcare, and a whole host of new friends. As a writer, I find myself crafting a series of novels -- in my head -- set in this incredible place. Then Mark "smacks" me out of my daydreaming and says, "Stop it...you're retired!"
"Yep, you got that right!" I bounce back.
But if I had to pinpoint the single greatest gift of all, it's been the joy of spending time with my hubby of almost 35 years. In the States we were always rushing around, trying to meet obligations and hoping there was enough money at the end of the month instead of the other way around! It's a privilege to be able to retire "young" (meaning in our 50's). Mark and I are closer now than we have ever been (we actually sleep in the same bed!). His snoring doesn't even bother me anymore.
The other day Mark leaned over and whispered in my ear, "You know...you have really pretty eyes!" We were eating ice cream at our favorite place -- Tutto Freddo -- as my "fresa" (strawberry) ice cream dripped off the cone. Mark reached over and licked off the scoop that was about to topple over and our eyes met. That's when I knew...we had actually fallen in love again!
Mark grabbed my hand and we walked across the street to Parque Calderon. We lingered for over an hour -- just holding hands -- not saying a word...reflecting on the second chance we've been given!
I know it sounds crazy, afterall we're 55 years old and we've been married for 35 years, but I still believe that love can have new beginnings. I'm so thankful that "Cuenca" has given us ours.
It's a good thing...to reflect!
Until next time...Hasta luego!
Marco y Consuelo
It's not an easy decision to leave family and friends, travel 2,800 miles, learn a new language and experience a new culture unless you're really sure it's what you're supposed to be doing.
Last week, I received several e-mails from readers who asked me to be honest about what this change has meant for us.
Some flat out told me that they could never leave their children (or grandchildren -- even if they didn't have any!). It would simply be too difficult. I wholeheartedly agree. It has been the single hardest thing we have ever done...to leave our boys. And if I'm really honest, there are days when I want to rush back on a plane so I can give them a hug! As you know, boys don't express their emotions (that often) and sometimes it's hard for me to "read" what they're thinking. But for the most part, those days don't overwhelm me like they did in the beginning. I can actually look at their pictures and not cry. Remember: We left three days after our son's wedding (not great planning on our part).
But as with all of life, we take the good with the bad and I must say that there's so much to be thankful for here in Cuenca: low cost of living, perpetual spring, lots of sunshine with scattered showers to make things green, a wonderfully diverse and caring culture, great food, fireworks every night, amazing healthcare, and a whole host of new friends. As a writer, I find myself crafting a series of novels -- in my head -- set in this incredible place. Then Mark "smacks" me out of my daydreaming and says, "Stop it...you're retired!"
"Yep, you got that right!" I bounce back.
But if I had to pinpoint the single greatest gift of all, it's been the joy of spending time with my hubby of almost 35 years. In the States we were always rushing around, trying to meet obligations and hoping there was enough money at the end of the month instead of the other way around! It's a privilege to be able to retire "young" (meaning in our 50's). Mark and I are closer now than we have ever been (we actually sleep in the same bed!). His snoring doesn't even bother me anymore.
The other day Mark leaned over and whispered in my ear, "You know...you have really pretty eyes!" We were eating ice cream at our favorite place -- Tutto Freddo -- as my "fresa" (strawberry) ice cream dripped off the cone. Mark reached over and licked off the scoop that was about to topple over and our eyes met. That's when I knew...we had actually fallen in love again!
Mark grabbed my hand and we walked across the street to Parque Calderon. We lingered for over an hour -- just holding hands -- not saying a word...reflecting on the second chance we've been given!
I know it sounds crazy, afterall we're 55 years old and we've been married for 35 years, but I still believe that love can have new beginnings. I'm so thankful that "Cuenca" has given us ours.
It's a good thing...to reflect!
Until next time...Hasta luego!
Marco y Consuelo
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living and retiring in ecuador
Friday, July 23, 2010
Hosteria Duran
I heard about Hosteria Duran long before we arrived in Cuenca, so when my good friend Maddie said, "Would you like to spend the day in Banos?" I jumped at the chance! The mineral springs/spa of Hosteria Duran and Piedra de Agua are just two of the places that were on my list to visit. Right outside of Cuenca (approximately 20 minutes -- depending on traffic!), you are transported to another world.
Maddie and I rode the #11 bus and then hoofed our way to "Piedra de Agua," but never quite made it there! So after much thought and two pairs of tired feet, we decided on our original destination -- Hosteria Duran. It definitely did not disappoint. We paid a whopping $5.00 to enter through the gates of the mineral baths, but not without a "bathing cap." When the gentleman at the entrance held up a black pair of something, I thought for sure it was a pair of "speedos" and politely declined! Thankfully, Maddie who is fluent in Spanish explained it was a bathing cap that was mandatory for all guests. If you do not have your own (and who does -- really?), you can purchase one for exactly $1.00. Total cost for the day came to a whopping $6.00.
Once we changed into our swimsuits, took our obligatory shower to enter the mineral springs, we decided to have an appetizer first, which consisted of "bignets" filled with ice cream and chocolate sauce. And I wonder why I'm not losing weight here! I'm sorry, I would love to show you a picture of those little delicacies, but my camera was checked in securely at the locker area. There's nothing like a perfect day with blue skies, white fluffy clouds and lots of sun to increase your appetite!
After we took a dip in the mineral springs, we ordered lunch which consisted of shrimp, prawns, potato soup (Cuencano style), and a perfect view of the gardens. I'm not sure when it happened (before or after lunch), but I forgot to reapply my SPF 100 suntan lotion. I don't have to remind you that we are near the equator and the sun is very direct. It wasn't until later that I realized my back was toward the sun and even through my towel, I got "hit" with a lot of vitamin D in the shape of my bathing suit!
After realizing we had enough "vitamins," we took a self-guided tour through the facilities of Hosteria Duran. The rooms overlook luscious green gardens and combined with a spectacular view of the town of Banos, it's definitely one of my favorite places thus far. Overnight stays are reasonable and would make a great weekend escape. It's hard to believe that just 20 minutes out of the city and a 25 cent bus ride, you can be in a different world.
We never made it to Piedra de Agua, but I'm sure it will be next on our list!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
P.S. At the time of this writing, Mark now wants to go to Hosteria Duran (and he's a Mountain Man!).
Maddie and I rode the #11 bus and then hoofed our way to "Piedra de Agua," but never quite made it there! So after much thought and two pairs of tired feet, we decided on our original destination -- Hosteria Duran. It definitely did not disappoint. We paid a whopping $5.00 to enter through the gates of the mineral baths, but not without a "bathing cap." When the gentleman at the entrance held up a black pair of something, I thought for sure it was a pair of "speedos" and politely declined! Thankfully, Maddie who is fluent in Spanish explained it was a bathing cap that was mandatory for all guests. If you do not have your own (and who does -- really?), you can purchase one for exactly $1.00. Total cost for the day came to a whopping $6.00.
Once we changed into our swimsuits, took our obligatory shower to enter the mineral springs, we decided to have an appetizer first, which consisted of "bignets" filled with ice cream and chocolate sauce. And I wonder why I'm not losing weight here! I'm sorry, I would love to show you a picture of those little delicacies, but my camera was checked in securely at the locker area. There's nothing like a perfect day with blue skies, white fluffy clouds and lots of sun to increase your appetite!
After we took a dip in the mineral springs, we ordered lunch which consisted of shrimp, prawns, potato soup (Cuencano style), and a perfect view of the gardens. I'm not sure when it happened (before or after lunch), but I forgot to reapply my SPF 100 suntan lotion. I don't have to remind you that we are near the equator and the sun is very direct. It wasn't until later that I realized my back was toward the sun and even through my towel, I got "hit" with a lot of vitamin D in the shape of my bathing suit!
After realizing we had enough "vitamins," we took a self-guided tour through the facilities of Hosteria Duran. The rooms overlook luscious green gardens and combined with a spectacular view of the town of Banos, it's definitely one of my favorite places thus far. Overnight stays are reasonable and would make a great weekend escape. It's hard to believe that just 20 minutes out of the city and a 25 cent bus ride, you can be in a different world.
We never made it to Piedra de Agua, but I'm sure it will be next on our list!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
P.S. At the time of this writing, Mark now wants to go to Hosteria Duran (and he's a Mountain Man!).
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Hosteria Duran
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Here Comes the Sun!
This morning I saw the sun (as in sunrise!).
I'm not sure what it is about Cuenca, but sunrises and sunsets are elusive...partly because we're surrounded by the mountains (southern sierras) and we're so close to the equator (or so I'm told).
Each morning I wake up to take a picture of the sun rising and it is either clouded in a mist of fog or the clouds completely cover it up. This morning at 6:30 AM, my husband nearly pulled me out of bed and handed me the camera and shouted, "Quick, it's here...the sun!"
True to his words, there were no clouds...no fog...no haze...it was the sun! I broke out in song, "Sun, sun, sun, here it comes..." I'm not sure if I did the Beatles justice by "my" lyrics, but you get the idea. In fact, I got so excited I almost forgot to take the picture of "Mr. Sun" peeping its glorious face and shining its rays into our bedroom window.
It was a magnificent sight and I'm still not quite over the shock that after six weeks, the sun finally welcomed us to Ecuador. Now, if I can only catch a sunset!
Until next time..hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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living and retiring in ecuador
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Religion in Cuenca
Ecuador is approximately 94% Roman Catholic and this past week we observed one of the many parades that are part of the scenery here in Cuenca. It was in honor of the Virgin Mary -- "Viva Maria." There were floats with children dressed as angels and a huge entourage with a statue of the Virgin Mary and those following behind her...lifting up her veil. I wanted to break out in song with the "Sound of Music," but I remained mute and just watched.
Having lived in Italy for six years, religious parades are not a new phenomenon, but I'm always amazed--shocked really--that bystanders will watch and follow the parade for hours until the floats disappear or the children fall asleep!
This week I received several e-mails and one of interest was about what to do if you're not Roman Catholic. We are fortunate in that there is a huge evangelical church down the street from where we live -- Centro Cristiano (5,000 members) with services on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The best part is we can walk to church (about a mile each way). Today was especially enjoyable because the sun came out after four days of rain and it was gorgeous. We especially enjoyed the music at church and the "flag twirlers." Yes, you heard me right -- flag twirlers in the morning service -- complete with matching outfits and great dancing.
We have met several expat couples and none of them attend church, but worship is a very important aspect of our life and so we were delighted to find a church that we can be part of and enjoy a form of worship similar to what we experienced in the States (minus the flag twirlers -- of course!).
Whatever your religion, I'm sure you will find it here in Cuenca.
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Health Care in Cuenca
Today my hubby and I had our physicals by Dr. Pablo Parra at Hospital Monte Sinai. Although not as much fun as shopping, eating ice cream at Tutto Freddo, or riding the bus at rush hour, it was definitely an experience.
Dr. Parra is an internal medicine specialist with another discipline in pneumonology (lung specialist) and he also speaks perfect English, which is nice at this point in our Spanish studies. We brought all our medical records from the States (at a cost—of course!). Dr. Parra met with us and thoroughly reviewed our records, made notes and recommendations (that was a week ago). Today we had our physicals and he reviewed his findings with us.
Medicine in Ecuador is more “holistic”—by that I mean, doctors take into consideration your whole person (body, soul and spirit). The other big difference is price. An average visit is $20 to $25 and that was for over an hour—both times! We also had lab work done, which included a full work-up. Total cost: $79 per person. On Friday, Dr. Parra will review the results of our lab work and make further recommendations.
When is the last time a doctor spent an hour with you; gave you his personal cell phone number (to call at any time), or told you that he makes house calls? I worked in the medical field for 20 years and if I ever gave out the personal cell phone number of one of the doctors I worked for, I would be fired on the spot!
You may be in shock the first time you visit a doctor in Cuenca because you will look at your watch and wonder when your 10 minutes are up. Don’t worry, it’s perfectly normal, but you’ll get used to it (I promise).
Here’s another difference that will take some getting used to. In the States, you don’t own your medical records…the doctors do. You can request your records (copies of them), but the original belongs to the doctor. In Ecuador when you have a test done, you receive the results (they are yours to keep!).
All of this means that you are receiving personalized attention which will take some getting used to (at first). You are no longer a number on a chart…you are a person. And that’s the difference with health care in Cuenca!
Until next time…hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
Dr. Pablo Parra can be reached at Monte Sinai Hospital, Miguel Cordero 6-111 y Av. Solano, Cuenca, Ecuador. Phone: 07-2885-595 (Ext. 2511) Email: parra5432@yahoo.com
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Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Museum of Modern Art
Last night I watched a program on television that highlighted all the amazing museums in Cuenca.
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Did you realize you could literally visit one museum a week for a year (or was that churches?). Anyway, I woke up my hubby to tell him the great news! I’m not so sure he appreciated it, but he must have absorbed something because we found ourselves at the Museum of Modern Art this morning (admission was free).
Mark is not a museum kind of guy, so I thought I would have to drag him there but surprisingly he came willingly. Today was one of those picture perfect days complete with white fluffy clouds and azure blue skies. Not exactly museum type of weather! As it turns out, the Museum of Modern Art is mostly outdoors, so thankfully I didn’t hear Mark complain once—not even a whimper.
We took our time meandering through the long halls (outdoors) and actually had fun playing with the different works of art. Our favorite was the “The Eyes on You." There were many more exhibits indoors, but we mostly played outdoors.
Yesterday was not a good day for us (read post "Change!"). We had a bad case of homesickness for our boys and if we stayed indoors we would have succumbed to tears again, which I did not want to do. So we forced ourselves on the bus and asked about eight different people where the Museum of Modern Art was and we got eight different answers. That’s okay, we needed the exercise.
In case you’re interested, it’s at Plaza de San Sebastian, just as you come into town. There are several outdoor eateries, a beautiful fountain, and lots of pigeons. They certainly know where the food is (don’t they?).
Afterwards we headed to Parque Calderon and had “almuerzo” at one of our favorite restaurants (Raymipampa) for “pollo y arroz.” We’ve learned from experience to order “uno para dos” because the portions are huge…I mean huge! We take the rest home and feed off of it for 3-4 days, adding sautéed vegetables to the mix. The portion is $5.00, but there must be an entire chicken in it (minus the head and the feet). We have figured out that it costs less to eat out than to prepare meals at home. You don’t hear me complaining about that!
Afterwards we headed for ice cream at Tutto Freddo for our “helado” fix. We shared a brownie and ice cream ($2.00), but again the portion was huge! And what I love most about eating ice cream in Cuenca, is it always comes with little spoons that look like shovels.
Mark has decided he likes visiting museums (I think it’s the food he remembers most). But we had a great day and I think we’ll continue on our schedule of visiting one museum per week.
Consuelo y Marco
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Monday, July 12, 2010
Change!
Last night we got a phone call from the director of our language school stating that our professor was no longer available and that we would have a new professor on Monday with a new time change.
"Okay," I heard my hubby say on the phone to the director.
But I wasn't "okay" with it. Our professor, "Juan" (not his real name) was great. We were making progress and were considered at the intermediate level after only 10 sessions. He knew us as students, but more than that he was becoming our friend. We later realized that it was something between him and the school and that we shouldn't get involved (so we did not!).
So this morning, we started with a new instructor at a different time. Change...it's what life is all about (right?). But to be perfectly honest with you, I've had just about all the change I can take for a while. Our new teacher is great (don't get me wrong); she's young, she's fun and she's more animated than "Juan," but today we started from the beginning again "Tell me a little bit about yourselves, " she said in Spanish with her eyes sparkling and her hands waving.
No! I thought to myself, I don't want to tell you about myself...I want "Juan" back!
My hubby gave me that knowing smile, put his hand to his forehead and scratched the back of his head with the other hand. After 34 years of marriage, I knew what that meant: Sit on your hands, Connie! Grin and bear it!
So I did...for one hour and 30 minutes. I was conversant and played along, but I wasn't "present." Afterall, how much can a girl take? In one month's time, I have married a son, sold a house, given away all my earthly possessions, said goodbye to family and friends, came to Ecuador with four suitcases...oh, yes, I wrote a book during that last month as well that probably will never be released because I now live in a foreign country. No big deal, right?
Wrong!
My ability to change has stopped functioning. After class, Mark took me to the Oro Verde for a cappuccino and while I was enjoying my "cap" and complimentary chocolate, I looked up to find Mark crying (no sobbing!). I put my arm around him and asked, "What's wrong, honey?" And then the words which made me cry as well..."I miss my boys!"
I knew it...I knew it...I knew it! It was bound to happen. Of course, we miss our boys (we had to hide the pictures around the apartment because we sobbed every time we looked at them). Our boys are 24 and 29 and they have lives of their own and they're happy. In fact, I mentioned to Jon that we couldn't bear to look at their pictures because we started sobbing. He joked with me and said, "Oh yeah, I'm sobbing uncontrollably too!" ;-)
Silence.
Thankfully, Mark is asleep now (siesta time); I'm writing two articles for the Internet (they actually pay me to do it -- imagine that?), and I'm listening to the rain pelt outside our bedroom window.
It's peaceful. It's quiet. It's home (for a change!).
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
"Okay," I heard my hubby say on the phone to the director.
But I wasn't "okay" with it. Our professor, "Juan" (not his real name) was great. We were making progress and were considered at the intermediate level after only 10 sessions. He knew us as students, but more than that he was becoming our friend. We later realized that it was something between him and the school and that we shouldn't get involved (so we did not!).
So this morning, we started with a new instructor at a different time. Change...it's what life is all about (right?). But to be perfectly honest with you, I've had just about all the change I can take for a while. Our new teacher is great (don't get me wrong); she's young, she's fun and she's more animated than "Juan," but today we started from the beginning again "Tell me a little bit about yourselves, " she said in Spanish with her eyes sparkling and her hands waving.
No! I thought to myself, I don't want to tell you about myself...I want "Juan" back!
My hubby gave me that knowing smile, put his hand to his forehead and scratched the back of his head with the other hand. After 34 years of marriage, I knew what that meant: Sit on your hands, Connie! Grin and bear it!
So I did...for one hour and 30 minutes. I was conversant and played along, but I wasn't "present." Afterall, how much can a girl take? In one month's time, I have married a son, sold a house, given away all my earthly possessions, said goodbye to family and friends, came to Ecuador with four suitcases...oh, yes, I wrote a book during that last month as well that probably will never be released because I now live in a foreign country. No big deal, right?
Wrong!
My ability to change has stopped functioning. After class, Mark took me to the Oro Verde for a cappuccino and while I was enjoying my "cap" and complimentary chocolate, I looked up to find Mark crying (no sobbing!). I put my arm around him and asked, "What's wrong, honey?" And then the words which made me cry as well..."I miss my boys!"
I knew it...I knew it...I knew it! It was bound to happen. Of course, we miss our boys (we had to hide the pictures around the apartment because we sobbed every time we looked at them). Our boys are 24 and 29 and they have lives of their own and they're happy. In fact, I mentioned to Jon that we couldn't bear to look at their pictures because we started sobbing. He joked with me and said, "Oh yeah, I'm sobbing uncontrollably too!" ;-)
Here's the point...you knew I was getting to it, didn't you? I'm sick of change. I want things to be stable (just for a couple of days, which means I don't want a new Spanish teacher). There...I said it!
As we walked out of the Oro Verde, another American couple walked in and complained that we had given "Ana" a tip for making the rest of our lunch "to go."
"You're going to ruin the economy in Ecuador if you do that!" he said (and he wasn't joking!).
I gave him a blank stare, grabbed Mark's hand before he said something he would surely regret and left the Oro Verde. As we held hands and walked back to our apartment I said, "Change is hard...isn't it?" Silence.
Thankfully, Mark is asleep now (siesta time); I'm writing two articles for the Internet (they actually pay me to do it -- imagine that?), and I'm listening to the rain pelt outside our bedroom window.
It's peaceful. It's quiet. It's home (for a change!).
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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Sunday, July 11, 2010
Mansion Alcazar
When we arrived in Cuenca (over a month ago), we passed by the Mansion Alcazar -- one of the upscale boutique hotels on Simon Bolivar. I peeked inside and shouted, "It looks like it's fit for a princess!" My hubby winked and grabbed my arm before I made reservations!
Many of the boutique hotels in Cuenca are -- in fact -- old colonial Cuencano homes with a central courtyard where the "bedrooms" in the mezzanine area overlook the open courtyard. These refurbished homes are treasures and you never know what you'll find inside!
Last evening my hubby surprised me by taking me out to dinner at the gourmet restaurant (Casa Alonso) at Mansion Alcazar (one month to the day that I first spotted this lovely place and drooled on its curtains!). It was simply amazing; I felt transported to another world (yes, I know...I am in another world!).
As soon as we walked through the portico, the door was opened by the attendant, and we were led to the courtyard. I stood speechless, admiring the antique Ecuadorian furniture, the candles that were lit in our presence, and the server who said, "Si, signora...tenemos todo!" That was his response to my request for the wine list. Mark blinked twice and asked, "Did you ask the price?"
"Whoa...honey...it's too late for that!" I responded with a wink and a smile.
As we sipped our wine (no we didn't ask the price!), we took in our surroundings: the antiques, the chandelier hanging from the open courtyard creating a soft glow, and the pink roses cascading from the center fountain. As I oohed and ahhed, the conceirge asked if she could take our picture. I sputtered out, "Podria tomar una foto -- por favor?" (Again, please don't imitate my "espanol"...you might be sorry!)
Her response was charming, "Por supuesto!" Certainly! I love the Ecuadorian hospitality (we felt like guests in someone's home).
After a round of pictures, the door was opened to the restaurant and we were seated next to the inner courtyard. My eye caught the white and red rose floating in water, the superior place settings, the gold cloth napkin, and the Armetale plates.
"Claro que si!" was the response. (That's always music to my ears; it means they understood me...sort of!).
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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Many of the boutique hotels in Cuenca are -- in fact -- old colonial Cuencano homes with a central courtyard where the "bedrooms" in the mezzanine area overlook the open courtyard. These refurbished homes are treasures and you never know what you'll find inside!
Last evening my hubby surprised me by taking me out to dinner at the gourmet restaurant (Casa Alonso) at Mansion Alcazar (one month to the day that I first spotted this lovely place and drooled on its curtains!). It was simply amazing; I felt transported to another world (yes, I know...I am in another world!).
As soon as we walked through the portico, the door was opened by the attendant, and we were led to the courtyard. I stood speechless, admiring the antique Ecuadorian furniture, the candles that were lit in our presence, and the server who said, "Si, signora...tenemos todo!" That was his response to my request for the wine list. Mark blinked twice and asked, "Did you ask the price?"
"Whoa...honey...it's too late for that!" I responded with a wink and a smile.
As we sipped our wine (no we didn't ask the price!), we took in our surroundings: the antiques, the chandelier hanging from the open courtyard creating a soft glow, and the pink roses cascading from the center fountain. As I oohed and ahhed, the conceirge asked if she could take our picture. I sputtered out, "Podria tomar una foto -- por favor?" (Again, please don't imitate my "espanol"...you might be sorry!)
Her response was charming, "Por supuesto!" Certainly! I love the Ecuadorian hospitality (we felt like guests in someone's home).
After a round of pictures, the door was opened to the restaurant and we were seated next to the inner courtyard. My eye caught the white and red rose floating in water, the superior place settings, the gold cloth napkin, and the Armetale plates.
During the meal, our every need was anticipated (it's as if she read our minds). Between courses we were served "sorbet" to freshen our palate (as if we needed it!). I have never tasted "basal sorbet," but I have to tell you...that was an experience. Mark ordered the Steak Alcazar and I ordered Chicken Parmesan. It was so tender, it melted in my mouth. I especially enjoyed the presentation of the tomato bisque...it was prepared at our table (sorry, I was too mesmerized so I didn't get pictures).
I practiced my Spanish and to my amazement our server understood everything I said, including..."Podemos compartir el postre?" Can we share a dessert? (Warning: If I were you, I wouldn't emulate my Spanish...it's hit or miss most of the time).
"Claro que si!" was the response. (That's always music to my ears; it means they understood me...sort of!).
The chocolate dessert included this "gooey" warm cake with a mousse filling -- served with a "copetta" of chocolate ice cream. The "Dora Explorer" pins were not for consumption, but actual souvenirs of the evening. (Thanks to the desserts in Cuenca, I've gained FIVE pounds in a month!)
My cafe arrived with its own little pitcher of warm milk (when is the last time that happened to you?). It was one of those evenings that I didn't want to end, but all good things do and the bill arrived (in a cute white and gold envelope with angels on the front). We were shocked! With wine (three or was it four glasses?), two entrees, salad, soup, dessert, cafe...(gratuity included), our total came to $40. I pinched myself. Although that's our budget for the month for eating out...it was worth it!
After payment, each of the doors leading to the inner courtyard were opened for us and we made our way to the street where Mark hailed a taxi. Once inside, I whispered into Mark's ear, "If this is a dream, p-l-e-a-s-e don't wake me up!" Mark wrapped his arms around me and whispered back, "I promise!"
That was -- by far -- the best meal I have ever eaten and as far as service goes...absolutely impeccable!
If you're looking for a special evening (don't wait for your birthday...make something up!), head to Mansion Alcazar. You won't be disappointed.
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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Saturday, July 10, 2010
The Fear Factor
This week I have received over ten e-mails addressing the "crime" in Cuenca. I decided to sleep on it first before I commented on the subject.
Many Americans come to Cuenca with an "American" mentality of what is safe and what is not, which is part of the problem!
Yes, Cuenca has crime and so does inner city Philadelphia. I would not walk the streets of Philly after dark if you paid me (in some areas!). The same rule applies in Cuenca. There are certain sections of Cuenca I would not venture into after dark without my husband; however, there are a lot more places in Philly I would not venture into even in the daytime hours. I think you get my point.
Common sense rules: If in doubt...don't!
That being said, I feel safer here than I did in America. Ecuador is a relatively poor country, so there are a lot more robberies and petty-theft crimes. If you flaunt your diamond rings, gold jewelry or furs...you will be a target. However, if you wear a backpack, designer sunglasses and an Indiana Jones hat, you will also be a target (even if you wear absolutely no jewelry). Why? Because you will look like a gringo!
Our language instructor is Cuencano and he has given us a lot of insight into the culture and what is proper (and what is not). He has told us the areas that are safe and the areas that are not. We have purposely committed ourselves to learning as much about the culture and language as possible, so we have limited our contact with Americans and have stuck to "hanging" out with the Ecuadorians. The first month in any culture is the most important; it is when your senses are the keenest and you absorb the most information. Fear is a terrible emotion and one you don't need to tap into.
Quite frankly, hanging out with Americans has increased my "fear factor." In general, they talk about who got robbed, shot and killed. Do not, I repeat...do not let the fear factor keep you from coming to Cuenca. If you come with an open mind, common sense, and leave your fear factor at home, you will enjoy this lovely place!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Marco y Consuelo
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Many Americans come to Cuenca with an "American" mentality of what is safe and what is not, which is part of the problem!
Yes, Cuenca has crime and so does inner city Philadelphia. I would not walk the streets of Philly after dark if you paid me (in some areas!). The same rule applies in Cuenca. There are certain sections of Cuenca I would not venture into after dark without my husband; however, there are a lot more places in Philly I would not venture into even in the daytime hours. I think you get my point.
Common sense rules: If in doubt...don't!
That being said, I feel safer here than I did in America. Ecuador is a relatively poor country, so there are a lot more robberies and petty-theft crimes. If you flaunt your diamond rings, gold jewelry or furs...you will be a target. However, if you wear a backpack, designer sunglasses and an Indiana Jones hat, you will also be a target (even if you wear absolutely no jewelry). Why? Because you will look like a gringo!
Our language instructor is Cuencano and he has given us a lot of insight into the culture and what is proper (and what is not). He has told us the areas that are safe and the areas that are not. We have purposely committed ourselves to learning as much about the culture and language as possible, so we have limited our contact with Americans and have stuck to "hanging" out with the Ecuadorians. The first month in any culture is the most important; it is when your senses are the keenest and you absorb the most information. Fear is a terrible emotion and one you don't need to tap into.
Quite frankly, hanging out with Americans has increased my "fear factor." In general, they talk about who got robbed, shot and killed. Do not, I repeat...do not let the fear factor keep you from coming to Cuenca. If you come with an open mind, common sense, and leave your fear factor at home, you will enjoy this lovely place!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Marco y Consuelo
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Friday, July 9, 2010
Milestones
Today marked a milestone in our language learning. We left this morning (before language school) to wait in line at the immigration office to get our updated censo (the last step before getting our "cedula").
The cedula is an important document; it allows us all the rights and privileges of an Ecuadorian citizen with the exception of being able to vote and run for office (not one of our aspirations!).
When we first arrived at the immigration office -- three weeks ago -- we could hardly say the word "hola" without stuttering. But today we reached a milestone...we not only understood everything the officer said, we were able to answer all his questions to his satisfaction. We walked out of the office with our new censos in hand!
I wish I could say that it is always the case...fluent Spanish, but it is not. The other day, Mark went into Sukasa (think: Crate and Barrel in the States). He went up to one of the associates and said, "Quisiera una tostada por favor!" The clerk's smile turned into a grin as he led us to the toasters. Unfortunately, there are a lot of Spanish words that are similar in sound, but with totally different meanings. The Spanish word for "toaster" is "tostadora." If Mark had been at Taco Bell, he would have been correct!
At the end of the day, we count it a privilege to have made mistakes...it's the only way to really learn a language. Some of the biggest mistakes we made in Italy -- while learning Italian -- still keep us laughing. Mark has his own way of learning a language and I have mine. Although we learn differently, we always celebrate the milestones.
Today our Spanish professor was sick and we had a free day so we went to "el centro" and celebrated with "helado" (ice cream) and Mark bought me two dozen roses at the flower market. Later we walked to Parque Calderon and met up with friends.
Part of the journey of living in another country is celebrating the milestones along the way (and never taking yourself too seriously!).
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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The cedula is an important document; it allows us all the rights and privileges of an Ecuadorian citizen with the exception of being able to vote and run for office (not one of our aspirations!).
When we first arrived at the immigration office -- three weeks ago -- we could hardly say the word "hola" without stuttering. But today we reached a milestone...we not only understood everything the officer said, we were able to answer all his questions to his satisfaction. We walked out of the office with our new censos in hand!
I wish I could say that it is always the case...fluent Spanish, but it is not. The other day, Mark went into Sukasa (think: Crate and Barrel in the States). He went up to one of the associates and said, "Quisiera una tostada por favor!" The clerk's smile turned into a grin as he led us to the toasters. Unfortunately, there are a lot of Spanish words that are similar in sound, but with totally different meanings. The Spanish word for "toaster" is "tostadora." If Mark had been at Taco Bell, he would have been correct!
At the end of the day, we count it a privilege to have made mistakes...it's the only way to really learn a language. Some of the biggest mistakes we made in Italy -- while learning Italian -- still keep us laughing. Mark has his own way of learning a language and I have mine. Although we learn differently, we always celebrate the milestones.
Today our Spanish professor was sick and we had a free day so we went to "el centro" and celebrated with "helado" (ice cream) and Mark bought me two dozen roses at the flower market. Later we walked to Parque Calderon and met up with friends.
Part of the journey of living in another country is celebrating the milestones along the way (and never taking yourself too seriously!).
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Men in Little Green Suits
One of the first things I noticed about Cuenca was just how clean it was (and continues to be!). The men/women in little green suits -- cleaning, sweeping, and throwing away garbage -- seem to abound on every corner.
I'm not sure if it's due to the UNESCO status that Cuenca holds or if it is just a squeaky clean city, but it never goes unnoticed (by us!).
When my husband first visited Cuenca in February of this year, he used to tease me on the phone and say, "There goes another one in a 'pink' suit!" He was referring to the multi-diversity of the cleaning uniforms (green, blue and orange). The rainbow of colors are all doing the same thing...keeping Cuenca beautiful.
That is not to say that there isn't the occasional litter along the streets, but "magically" by the next day it seems to be clean once again. We even see the street vendors washing off their section of the sidewalk at the end of the day. It seems like the Cuencanos take pride in keeping their city looking pristine.
Mother nature also seems to help out by giving almost a daily dose of rain (either by night or by day) to finish off what the men in little green suits started!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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I'm not sure if it's due to the UNESCO status that Cuenca holds or if it is just a squeaky clean city, but it never goes unnoticed (by us!).
When my husband first visited Cuenca in February of this year, he used to tease me on the phone and say, "There goes another one in a 'pink' suit!" He was referring to the multi-diversity of the cleaning uniforms (green, blue and orange). The rainbow of colors are all doing the same thing...keeping Cuenca beautiful.
That is not to say that there isn't the occasional litter along the streets, but "magically" by the next day it seems to be clean once again. We even see the street vendors washing off their section of the sidewalk at the end of the day. It seems like the Cuencanos take pride in keeping their city looking pristine.
Mother nature also seems to help out by giving almost a daily dose of rain (either by night or by day) to finish off what the men in little green suits started!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Consuelo y Marco
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Friday, July 2, 2010
Tiestos!
Since first reading about Cuenca, there was one word that resonated..."Tiestos." It seems to be the mecca for expats and Cuencanos alike where the best chef in the world mingles with the guests, serves the first portion of food, gives you a table (when you didn't have reservations!), and basically makes the dining experience more like an "event" rather than a meal.
We invited our "neuvos amigos" -- Rhonda and Jerry to join us. The portions were huge and the food is probably the best I have ever tasted (sorry Italy...you are now bumped to second place!). The dinner is served piping hot in a tiesto dish (hence the name of the restaurant "Tiestos"). But before the main course arrives, an assortment of appetizers, salad, and condiments for the main course abound at the table. Juan -- the owner and chef -- presented the main course with a flare all his own which certainly described his feelings for the profession of gourmet cooking! We ordered "filet mignon"-- in portions unheard of in the States -- that literally melted in your mouth. Oh, and did I mention dessert...it was a work of art!
Tiestos marked the anniversary of our first month in Ecuador and our new life. We couldn't be happier. We finally got it right this time...this is truly home!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Concetta y Marco
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We invited our "neuvos amigos" -- Rhonda and Jerry to join us. The portions were huge and the food is probably the best I have ever tasted (sorry Italy...you are now bumped to second place!). The dinner is served piping hot in a tiesto dish (hence the name of the restaurant "Tiestos"). But before the main course arrives, an assortment of appetizers, salad, and condiments for the main course abound at the table. Juan -- the owner and chef -- presented the main course with a flare all his own which certainly described his feelings for the profession of gourmet cooking! We ordered "filet mignon"-- in portions unheard of in the States -- that literally melted in your mouth. Oh, and did I mention dessert...it was a work of art!
During our meal, we greeted other expats -- especially Nancy and Rich (I've been following their blog for over a year and it was great to meet them in person). By the way, Rich and Nancy..."Happy 22nd Anniversary."
After we left Tiestos, we took a walk to "el centrol" where the Festival of Azuay was going on in the square. There were street vendors, live music and dancing. We were entertained by a 70-year-old woman who was teaching a little girl "muchacha" how to dance. It's only when you're in that environment that you realize how fortunate you are to have found a place in the world that combines all the things you love most about life: great friends, rich culture with a deep heritage and history, and the best food I've ever tasted.
After taking our walk to "el centro," we took a taxi drive home, enjoyed a glass of wine with Rhonda and Nancy in their lovely apartment where we watched fireworks from their balcony.
Life is so rich and full here -- a sense of true belonging. We have bonded with the culture and often wonder if the Cuencanos realize just how great they have it. This is truly paradise. But I suppose they may take for granted what we realize is almost sacred and special.
After taking our walk to "el centro," we took a taxi drive home, enjoyed a glass of wine with Rhonda and Nancy in their lovely apartment where we watched fireworks from their balcony.
Life is so rich and full here -- a sense of true belonging. We have bonded with the culture and often wonder if the Cuencanos realize just how great they have it. This is truly paradise. But I suppose they may take for granted what we realize is almost sacred and special.
Tiestos marked the anniversary of our first month in Ecuador and our new life. We couldn't be happier. We finally got it right this time...this is truly home!
Until next time...hasta luego!
Concetta y Marco
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