Five Reasons to Love Salinas

For years we've been hearing from our friends, the kids that we teach and from our Ecuadorian neighbors how wonderful Salinas is and the old refrain, "You're going to love it there." Well, I was skeptical because I also heard how it's not so great six months out of the year. There are so many conflicting stories, so we decided to check it out for ourselves. Surprise, surprise, surprise...I loved it.
Here's why:

Reason #1: It's sunny. I guess that's not a big surprise. We're heading into the rainy season in Cuenca and after five days of rain, I'm ready for a change. Salinas showed us its sunny side all five days, so much so that I forgot all about Cuenca and that four letter word R-A-I-N. Blue skies, white fluffy clouds, warm ocean waters, and a beach umbrella and I'm one happy camper.

Salinas Yacht Club

Reason #2: It's modern. I already pictured the high-rise condo buildings because I had seen pictures on the Internet, but what I wasn't expecting was a modern mall, new and modern bus station, a beautiful new airport, and a Mi Comisariato that makes MegaMaxi pale in comparison.

Reason #3: People walk around in shorts, flip-flops, and bathing suits -- even in the grocery store. Can you imagine if you did that in Cuenca? It reminded me a lot of Miami; there's no dress code. You roll out of bed and onto the seashore.

Reason #4: Restaurants. I thought we had a lot of restaurants in Cuenca. Oh my goodness, we dined at the Italian Gourmet on pizza night (Wednesdays) -- all you can eat -- for $5.00. Yep, you heard me right...on the terrace with a gentle breeze and great conversation. It was perfect. Right next door was the Common Grounds Waffle House. In fact, there were so many restaurants, I simply stopped counting.

Reason #5: Sunsets. I guess it's no surprise that I love sunsets (I'm a California girl) and we saw plenty of those during our stay. In fact, we stayed at El Faro Hosteria and the owner, Gabriel, took us on a tour of Chocolatera at sunset and I was almost ready to sell our condo in Cuenca and set up house in the lighthouse. It was simply breathtaking with the ocean waves crashing against the rocks, the pinkish red skies and the blow holes spraying water like a geiser. Gabriel was kind enough to show us all around Salinas, including the yacht club where he's a member and I decided Salinas wouldn't be a bad life!

La Chocolatera

Blow Hole at La Chocolatera

Sunset at Chocolatera

Sunset at El Mirador

La Puntilla

We stayed at El Faro (The Lighthouse) in a tropical paradise with exotic flora and fauna, so it was easy to fall in love with Salinas. Who wouldn't enjoy a private beach and garden filled with every type of bird imaginable and listening to wind chimes? As soon as my head hit the pillow every night, I was out for the count. After the second day, I decided I wanted to apply for the job of groundskeeper, so I could hang around a little longer and pay for my room and board. By the way, if you want a great place to stay -- away from the crowds and noise of the Malecon -- then El Faro is the way to go.

El Faro Private Beach

The Lighthouse

Dining Area

Tortuguita

Pathway to the Ocean

As much as I loved our stay in Salinas, I don't think I could live in an air-conditioned society full-time. We had that life in Miami, Florida and after three years, I wasn't so fond of it. It's a nice place to visit, but you wouldn't want to live there. And, unfortunately, mosquitoes adore me. They lick off the Off Spray, call their friends for a mosquito party, and I'm the honored guest. I came home with welts the size of sand dollars and now I'm recuperating with Calamine Lotion all over my body. I look like a pink leopard. I'm not sure what it was because I've never been devoured like that before and we go to Puerto Lopez every year.

I understand the attraction to Salinas -- the resort city of Ecuador. I would like to go back (as soon as I heal from my bites). But I think my pictures of the sun, the surf, and the ocean will have to sustain me through April and May.

In the end, I'm so thankful for Cuenca's weather without the need for air-conditioning and bug spray. I love Salinas, but only for a visit!

Until next time...hasta luego,

What Must They Think?

When you come to Cuenca, you will notice that family takes precedence over everything. They live together—sometimes three generations in one house; they eat together and they play together. It’s how they were raised. In fact—walking through the neighborhood—it’s hard not to notice how Cuencanos purposefully plan for everyone to be under one roof.

Sometimes you will see homes that stretch an entire block or "compounds" with separate homes for each of the family members. So when I’m asked how could I leave my family to come to Ecuador, I’m very careful how I answer that question because I don’t want them to think that I don’t care!

Today I answered that question with eyes brimming full of tears! I’m sure the taxi driver wasn’t expecting me to blubber on and on about how much I missed my family; he was just asking a simple question with a not-so-simple answer. In fact, when I started pulling out pictures of our boys, my son and his wife, and my family in California, I’m sure he was thinking to himself, This poor señora needs to get a grip!

After a year in “paradise” you start to reflect on what brought you here in the first place. For us, it was simple; we came here for the excellent and affordable medical care. In fact, we aren’t the only ones. It’s becoming a common theme among expats looking to retire in Cuenca. Retiring overseas—once considered to be a luxury—is now becoming a necessity.

When I try to explain that concept to our Ecuadorian friends, they just shake their heads! That’s because it’s inconceivable to them that family doesn’t take care of family—especially when it comes to medical care. In fact, one of the things you will see missing in Cuenca is a lot of rest homes—“asilo de ancianos.” That’s because in Ecuador, the family is the single strongest unit—they take care of one another.

In America, we are taught to have an independent spirit: raise the kids, send them away to college and lock the door when they leave! And when the parents get old, just send them away to a nursing home and let someone else take care of them. Very few families in the U.S. take care of their elderly parents—in their own home. In Ecuador, it’s that great respect for the elderly—passed on from generation to generation—that keeps them all living under one roof.

We have many expat friends who are caretaking from a distance and some who have chosen to bring their parents with them. There are no easy answers and no simple solutions. If you’re planning a move to Cuenca, remember that you will have days --  like I had today -- wondering, What must they think?

Until next time…hasta luego!







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The "Perfect" Retirement Community?

Someone asked me to describe Cuenca and I said, “It’s the perfect retirement community!”

There was a long pause and then the words, “Are you serious?”

In my former life, one of my jobs was to evaluate retirement communities based on a five-star system. Living in the Pennsylvania/Baltimore/DC Metro area, there were a lot of high-end places to retire, but rarely did any of them make the five-star grade.

Yesterday, when Mark and I were walking home from “el centro,” I realized that Cuenca had made the grade (almost!). It’s a retirement community without walls and this is what it includes:

*A central park with a church in the middle (Parque Calderon and Nueva Catedral).

*The city is built in a checkerboard pattern, so even if you’ve lost your internal compass you can still find your way home (just look for the three blue domes).

*An abundance of medical care facilities, including three modern hospitals (Santa Ines, Monte Sinai, Hospital del Rio).

*Free events: concerts, musicals, plays and community functions.

*Pools, gyms, spas, and tennis courts (minimal cost).

*No need for a car; you can walk anywhere within a 2-3 mile radius.

*Social Activities Director. The Gringo Tree provides an ongoing list of entertainment options from scenic outings to free concerts.

*Abundance of Dining Options (from $1.50 lunches to 5-star dining).

*Near perfect weather.

*A supportive community environment.

Expat Night at Zoe's

*Ongoing “speech” therapy in the way of language learning!

*Access to a major airport.

*Highly affordable.

The five shiny stars start to lose their luster when you factor in the cobblestone streets, sidewalks, and crazy drivers. Unfortunately, Cuenca is not a handicapped accessible “retirement community” and therefore loses one of its stars (entirely!).

Cuenca would not be able to retain its Old World charm if the cobblestones streets were paved and the sidewalks were glazed over, so a simple rule of planting your feet and looking before you “leap” will help considerably!

And it turns out “retirement” folks are not the only ones coming to Cuenca; it’s a whole new generation of 30 and 40 year olds that are wanting to escape the rat race and develop a simpler way of life before they retire.

Oh, and I forgot to mention that one of the amenities of living in this “retirement community” is Fourth of July fireworks—almost “daily.”

Until next time…hasta luego!

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Island in the Sun

Recently, our friends found their “island” in the sun—along the river at Rio Sol. This new development in Cuenca is a gated community with trails for bikes, wide streets, a riverfront view and close to a new shopping mall!

Shelley and Blaine are not your typical expats. They are a young family of four with elementary-age children who run an internet business from home (and the office!).

Originally, they came to Ecuador—ten years ago—to adopt, but instead they were blessed with two children of their own and decided to make Cuenca their home.

We were invited over for “almuerzo” to see their new place after months of anticipation. To say that I was shocked would be an understatement. Their home is absolutely amazing with 3,000 square feet, three stories (or was it four?), a front yard, backyard, and amazing light streaming through the windows. Their home is open, airy and peaceful. My favorite room in the house is the master bedroom with a view of the river and a walk-in shower that’s as big as my kitchen!

So where did they find this spectacular place?

Blaine is a businessman in Cuenca and heard about this house for rent from a co-worker. They are renting with the option to buy. It’s absolutely perfect for their family of four and their dog, Princesa (Princess).

While we ate lunch we talked about the different housing options that are available in Cuenca and Blaine posed an interesting question, “What is it that you want and what are you willing to give up?”

I never heard it put that way before, but that question has a lot more to do with our lives than just real estate!

All of us gave up a certain way of life to come to Cuenca. For us, it meant living on one-tenth of what we made in the States. Think about that—one-tenth?!? I’m not quite sure what we did with all that money, but we never had enough. We felt like we had to keep up with the Jones: new house, new car, and a lifestyle that went with it. In the end, we were absolutely miserable.

We traded all that in to live simply and purposefully. We don’t have a car, we don’t own a house, and we don’t have to keep up with the Joneses anymore!

Yes, we did give up a lot to come down here, but in exchange we found what was elusive to us in the States—a life that money can’t buy!

We learned a long time ago that the accumulation of things, rarely—if ever—makes us happy. Our new life in Cuenca (more with less) has actually allowed us to create our own “island in the sun.”

Until next time…hasta luego!



Tags: retirement low cost of living Cuenca Ecuador luxury travel

"Houseboat" and Friends!

It’s always fun to meet bloggers, Facebook friends, and other folks who come to Cuenca for a visit. I like to get their first impressions and thoughts on the city and hear about their plans for the future. Some come to invest, others come to live here part-time, and the rest sell everything and now call Cuenca home. There’s no right or wrong way!

Retiring overseas used to be considered a luxury, but today it's almost a necessity -- especially for the baby boomer generation. We're thankful we can combine both retirement and luxury in Cuenca!

This weekend we had fun dining, going to concerts, eating out with friends, meeting new folks in town and attending cultural events. Not all our weekends are this full, but there’s a lot going on with pre-Easter activities. It’s been fun to slosh around in the rain while hopping from one event to the other. The river is at full roar with no sign of letting up. Normally we can see boulders popping out of the water, but they’re completely buried under a rush of white water rapids.

We’re so close to the Tomebamba that we’ve already made an exit plan in case the river overflows its banks (which is unlikely!). We can jump from our second story balcony and man the life rafts (which we don’t have). We had friends over on Saturday who commented, “This is like being on a houseboat!” That’s probably the best description of our place that I’ve heard yet. We’re enjoying our new “vacation” home!

Sunday we took a break from our "houseboat" and met up with blogger friends, Bill and Donna, who are here to check out Cuenca. We enjoyed “almuerzo” at La Esquina where an art festival was going on. We’ll catch up with them later on in the week for some Chicago Pizza after they’ve had an opportunity to view some properties. We’re excited to see what life has in store for them. Although the days of $30,000 luxury condos are gone, there are still some really great deals in Cuenca and the surrounding areas.

Back at the” houseboat,” we’re winding down from the weekend and we're enjoying being lulled to sleep with the sound of "waves lapping at our feet"!

Until next time…hasta luego!

Villa Rosa and Celebrations!

Today we had lunch at the Villa Rosa with a friend. It's was our second visit to this amazing restaurant and I have to tell you this is definitely five-star dining: white starched tablecloths and napkins, fresh flowers at every turn, and food that is a cut above the rest. But the service is what makes it a dining experience. It was celebratory! Berta and Patricia Ventimilla, the owners, make you feel like family from the moment you step in the door.

We went to savor the famous "Fanesca" which is only served once a year (a pre-Lenten "meal"). Every region of Ecuador has a different version of this "sopa" (soup), but Villa Rosa's Fanesca is simply the best.

Berta proudly brought out the spoon to show us what they stirred the pot with and let me tell you; it was a huge spoon. The soup was a meal in itself and nothing else was required. It was a cream-based soup with 12 different beans and grains in it! There were peas, fava beans, lima beans, fish (salt cod), seeds, squash and served with a hard boiled egg on top. Villa Rosa has been rated consistently by Frommer's and Conde Nast as the best place in Cuenca to dine and I will have to agree with them. This elegant restaurant is located at 12-22 Gran Columbia at Tarqui in a restored colonial home.

When we returned home with our tummies quite full, I checked my e-mail and then I knew why we were celebrating. The Kindle edition of Living and Retiring in Cuenca was on the "bookshelf." And the best news yet, you don't need a Kindle. You can actually download Kindle on to your PC, iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry or Android (absolutely free). You can even preview a sample chapter. Now Mark and I don't have to "fight" over the Kindle anymore; it's on my laptop!

It's been a celebratory day in every way. Even the rain is making me happy; the Tomebamba River is almost full to overflowing and it sounds like Niagra Falls from our balcony and in every room in the house. It feels like we're on a cruise ship -- only we're staying still and the river is moving!

Celebrations happen every day in Cuenca and today was no exception!

Until next time...hasta luego!