Five Reasons to Love Salinas

For years we've been hearing from our friends, the kids that we teach and from our Ecuadorian neighbors how wonderful Salinas is and the old refrain, "You're going to love it there." Well, I was skeptical because I also heard how it's not so great six months out of the year. There are so many conflicting stories, so we decided to check it out for ourselves. Surprise, surprise, surprise...I loved it.
Here's why:

Reason #1: It's sunny. I guess that's not a big surprise. We're heading into the rainy season in Cuenca and after five days of rain, I'm ready for a change. Salinas showed us its sunny side all five days, so much so that I forgot all about Cuenca and that four letter word R-A-I-N. Blue skies, white fluffy clouds, warm ocean waters, and a beach umbrella and I'm one happy camper.

Salinas Yacht Club

Reason #2: It's modern. I already pictured the high-rise condo buildings because I had seen pictures on the Internet, but what I wasn't expecting was a modern mall, new and modern bus station, a beautiful new airport, and a Mi Comisariato that makes MegaMaxi pale in comparison.

Reason #3: People walk around in shorts, flip-flops, and bathing suits -- even in the grocery store. Can you imagine if you did that in Cuenca? It reminded me a lot of Miami; there's no dress code. You roll out of bed and onto the seashore.

Reason #4: Restaurants. I thought we had a lot of restaurants in Cuenca. Oh my goodness, we dined at the Italian Gourmet on pizza night (Wednesdays) -- all you can eat -- for $5.00. Yep, you heard me right...on the terrace with a gentle breeze and great conversation. It was perfect. Right next door was the Common Grounds Waffle House. In fact, there were so many restaurants, I simply stopped counting.

Reason #5: Sunsets. I guess it's no surprise that I love sunsets (I'm a California girl) and we saw plenty of those during our stay. In fact, we stayed at El Faro Hosteria and the owner, Gabriel, took us on a tour of Chocolatera at sunset and I was almost ready to sell our condo in Cuenca and set up house in the lighthouse. It was simply breathtaking with the ocean waves crashing against the rocks, the pinkish red skies and the blow holes spraying water like a geiser. Gabriel was kind enough to show us all around Salinas, including the yacht club where he's a member and I decided Salinas wouldn't be a bad life!

La Chocolatera

Blow Hole at La Chocolatera

Sunset at Chocolatera

Sunset at El Mirador

La Puntilla

We stayed at El Faro (The Lighthouse) in a tropical paradise with exotic flora and fauna, so it was easy to fall in love with Salinas. Who wouldn't enjoy a private beach and garden filled with every type of bird imaginable and listening to wind chimes? As soon as my head hit the pillow every night, I was out for the count. After the second day, I decided I wanted to apply for the job of groundskeeper, so I could hang around a little longer and pay for my room and board. By the way, if you want a great place to stay -- away from the crowds and noise of the Malecon -- then El Faro is the way to go.

El Faro Private Beach

The Lighthouse

Dining Area

Tortuguita

Pathway to the Ocean

As much as I loved our stay in Salinas, I don't think I could live in an air-conditioned society full-time. We had that life in Miami, Florida and after three years, I wasn't so fond of it. It's a nice place to visit, but you wouldn't want to live there. And, unfortunately, mosquitoes adore me. They lick off the Off Spray, call their friends for a mosquito party, and I'm the honored guest. I came home with welts the size of sand dollars and now I'm recuperating with Calamine Lotion all over my body. I look like a pink leopard. I'm not sure what it was because I've never been devoured like that before and we go to Puerto Lopez every year.

I understand the attraction to Salinas -- the resort city of Ecuador. I would like to go back (as soon as I heal from my bites). But I think my pictures of the sun, the surf, and the ocean will have to sustain me through April and May.

In the end, I'm so thankful for Cuenca's weather without the need for air-conditioning and bug spray. I love Salinas, but only for a visit!

Until next time...hasta luego,

Weather in Cuenca

If you wonder where I've been, I've been writing--just not blogging!

I'm revising the book, 101 Questions Answered on Cuenca. I've uncovered so much material that it really can't be considered a revised edition any longer, but rather a second edition. And my commitment is to keep it updated every month because I never want to go through this much work ever again.

Also, since it's been raining all day in Cuenca, it's perfect writing weather (for me anyway). I gain a lot of inspiration when it's pouring outside because I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything. When the sun is brilliant with blue skies and fluffy white clouds, who wants to stay indoors and write?

Not me!

Anyway, next week we're taking off for Salinas (we've never been there before) and it's supposed to be beautiful and sunny all week, while it rains its little heart out in Cuenca.

That leads me to the question of weather in Cuenca, which is one of my favorite subjects. Cuenca is very forgiving in that regard. You forget about the rainy weather when the sun is shining; it's like Cuenca casts this spell of amnesia over us.

Rain?

What rain?

Ha!

Before I get into specifics about the weather, I'm going to share with you the truth. I don't know anywhere else you can live in the world with an average temperature of 68.5 degrees for a high and an average of 48.6 as a low. You can tell I'm working on the weather question in the book, can't you?

All these years when everyone has been saying Cuenca's highs are in the 70's and lows in the 50's; they really mean to say that the average yearly high is 68.5 degrees and the average low is 48.6 degrees with an average yearly rainfall of 34.57 inches. The city that compares to that perfectly is Camanche, Iowa (34.57 inches of rainfall). The average number of rainy days in Cuenca is 179.

Why am I going into such detail?

Well, mainly because there seems to be so much controversy about the weather. Highs in the 70's and lows in the 50's have been thrown around for so long, I think we've come to believe it.

Today I'm setting the record straight: it's an average high of 68.5 degrees and 48.6 degrees for an average low. From now on, I will refer to the weather in Cuenca as high 60's and high 40's. That has a slightly different ring to it -- doesn't it?

This is what Cuenca's weather looks like this week: You can check it out for yourself at www.wunderground.com. For rain it's 90-100% likely through Tuesday, March 24th and only 60% chance of rain through Sunday, the 29th (Palm Sunday). That's why we're leaving town (sunny days in Salinas all next week).

I was going to write out the entire year of highs, lows, sunshine and rain, but I thought it might be better if you took a look. Click here and scroll down to the bottom of the page. I realize that nothing is 100 percent accurate, but I've been recording daytime highs and lows in my calendar for the past five years and I've gotta say it's pretty spot on.

So what's the big deal? It's only a couple of degrees here and there. Well, it is a big deal to me. I've been throwing out average temps of 70's and low 50's since we moved here because that's what I've been reading since we checked out Cuenca in 2009.

I realize that we live in the subtropical highlands near the equator, so our temperatures would be downright hot and humid if it weren't for the elevation of Cuenca (approx. 8,300 feet and 8,200 feet in some areas), but I intend to be more accurate in my weather reporting. In fact, I just might blog about the weather forecast every day (how boring would that be?). Then again, I would have a year of accurately reported weather from a boots on the ground source.

Today weather looks like this from Wunderground.com; the most accurate place I've found for the weather in Cuenca.

Until next time...your Cuenca weather correspondent is taking a break!

Light Rain

13.7 °C

Feels Like 13.7 °C

N

3.2

Wind from SE 
Gusts 0.0 km/h

Today is forecast to be MUCH COOLER than yesterday.

Today

High 13 | Low 10 °C

60% Chance of Precip.

Yesterday

High 12.9 | Low 12.9 °C

Precip. 189 mm

Five Things I Can't Live Without!

We've lived in Cuenca for almost five years and most days I feel like we brought too much stuff (and we only came with four suitcases). And then other days, I lament over what I left behind (mostly sentimental stuff -- photo albums). I didn't have time to make copies of all the pictures because we were in a time crunch. In three months, we sold our house, packed up, married a son, and left the country. Not a bad way to do things!

These are a few of my favorite things!

But there are some things that make my life a little easier here and one is not an iPhone. I do not own one and I will not have one. I'm like Gibs on NCIS, I use a flip phone. It does the job. And quite frankly, I can't be bothered with phone calls; I have enough e-mails to answer.

Here's my "I can't live without it" list:
(1) Samsung Galaxy. I read my Kindle books on it, listen to the news, watch movies (Netflix). It's three years old and still going strong.
(2) iPad Tablet for my hubby. He can't live without his iPad like I can't live without my Samsung. I only borrow it when I want to listen to the ocean wave app. Pure heaven!
(3) Good set of earphones. I love the Sony ones that hook around your ears. I listen to music to go to sleep, so they're comfortable. Cuenca can get noisy, especially on the weekends, so the fireworks can pop, the dogs can bark and the roosters can crow and I'm fine with it!
(4) Brita Pitcher and water filters. I've seen them at Supermaxi (grocery store for gringos) and then they were gone. I think they were a knock-off brand. But you know the drill...if you see it...buy it or else it will be gone.
(5) Internet Extender by Netgear. This little gadget makes our life easier by extending our Internet to all the rooms. Our condo has an American set-up, meaning the bedrooms are not all in one hallway. There's the master bedroom and bath on one side of the apartment and the other bath and bedroom are on the other side, separated by the living room, kitchen and hallway. Well, our Internet is in our master bedroom and the other bedroom we use as a study/guest room. You see where I'm going with this -- don't you? Someone in the study isn't getting Internet! Problem solved and now everyone is happy...thanks to Netgear.

The last item(s), I wasn't going to mention, but since we've had an unusually wet "springtime" in Cuenca, I'm so thankful for my rain boots. They're by Chooka and classy enough so they don't look like I've been working in the fields, but practical enough that my feet stay dry while puddle splashing.

And, of course, my Lindsay Phillips ballet flats. One shoe and 30 snap-on pretties.Can you believe it? I've had them for three years and they simply won't wear out. You can dress them up or dress them down and everyone thinks I have 30 pairs of shoes. Not! I call it "jewelry" for shoes and wish I had thought of the idea myself. Way to go Jennifer!

Anyway, it's a short list and everyone's different, but the longer I'm here, the less I miss. Of course, you can find electronic stuff here, you're just going to pay more for it. It's not like we live in a third-world country!

Lindsay Phillips Ballet Flats with Snap-Ons

Chooka Rain Boots

Remember: Less is more!

Until next time...hasta luego!

World Class Orchids and the International Film Festival

If we were back in the States right now, we would be shoveling snow, making sure the car didn't freeze overnight so we could get to work, and planning our holiday schedule around the weather system patterns.

I reminded myself of that last week as I was walking through the Orchid Festival at Mall del Rio. It's November in Cuenca and not only did I get to enjoy orchids inside the convention center, but outside -- as well -- on my walk to and from the mall.

The International Orchid Festival and Film Festival coincide with one another, which makes for some spectacular day and evening dates. The entrance fee to see the orchids is $2.00 and includes displays from the USA, Taiwan, Japan, Italy, and, of course, Ecuador. Not only are the orchids on display, but a Bonsai exhibition and flower arrangement extravaganza can be seen as well. The smell of orchids wafting through the air stays with you long after you leave the convention center.

Mark and I attended the opening of the film festival and got to meet some of the actors and directors. Not until I got home and looked up everyone's name did I realize...these people are famous! The first film we saw was "La vida es facil con los ojos cerrados" by director David Trueba. It's a fascinating story about an English teacher who interviews John Lennon in the '60's and takes a trip to Spain to see the singer on location (along with two "students" that happened to come across his path). It won the Goya Award (Spain's version of the Academy Awards) for best film, best director, best original writing and best lead actor.

This evening, we'll be seeing Boyhood at Multicines Millenium Plaza. Where else can you attend free films all during the week without having to shovel snow to get there?

See ya at the movies!

The Cost of Paradise 2014

After four years, things have changed in our "cost of paradise" budget!

We've made a few alternations. And gone are the days when you can live comfortably on $600 a month, although we know several single people who live on that amount and do just fine. And you can still find rents for $300; in fact, I saw one on Craigslist the other day for $280 that was two bedrooms, one bath with granite counter tops and modern kitchen, but it was only 538 square feet. We live in 800 square feet and it's perfect for us: 2 bedrooms, 2 baths and every room with a view. That works for us!

However, I still get sticker shock at Supermaxi -- in the make-up aisle -- when I see Maybelline mascara for $16.00. Ouch! I guess we can't put a price tag on beauty -- right?  I just make sure I stock up on all those "necessary" items on our trips back to the States.

Thankfully, we're vegetarians, we don't drink, don't smoke, and have no other vices so we're fortunate in that regard.

Our shopping list looks basically the same almost every week. The fruit and veggies change, depending on what's in season. We juice a lot, so we keep everything fresh and sometimes we'll make 2-3 trips a week to Coral, Supermaxi or the mercado to get what we need.

Broccoli                                      .54
Pulpa de Pina (pineapple pulp) 1.68
Cauliflower                               1.03
Mora (Blackberries)                 1.12
Avocadoes (3 large)                   .83
Tomatoes (6 large)                     .81
Onions   (4 large)                       .78
Cucumbers   (3)                         .53
Pre-pizza                                  1.27
Bouquet of flowers                  1.29
Dental floss                             2.94 (x2)

As you can see the most expensive thing on the "menu" is dental floss; it's by Oral B and imported. I have no idea how much dental floss costs in the States, but something tells me it might be cheaper.

If you shop on Wednesdays at Supermaxi you can get a discount of 20% on produce and flowers, so that's usually when we shop, along with the rest of Cuenca!

I know, we're NOT your typical expat couple in that we don't drink alcohol, but we can drink all the "jugo" (juice) we want. We enjoy eating healthy and our blood pressure thanks us (and so does the rest of our body).

Our new budget is about the same with a few exceptions; we don't pay rent!

Rent                                  0
Alicuota  (condo fees)   $45
Water & Gas            $9
Electric                           $25
ETAPA phone                 $4
ETAPA Internet             $39            
Groceries                      $330
Medical/IESS               $142
Transportation                $50
Savings                         $160
Life Ins.                          $94
Rx's                                 $50
Misc.                               $50
Entertainment                 $50
Cell                                   $5
Doctor                             $50
Charity                          $152

Total                            $1,210

Our allotted budget is $1,317.17, so we are below budget. We cancelled Direct TV and switched to Apple TV. Initial investment was $150, but we love it (no commercials). We actually spend less than we did four years ago, but that's because we own our home. All the rest that we make goes into savings -- including our teaching and writing income. We use the extras to go on vacation to the States once a year and take a few vacations within Ecuador. This year we went to the coast twice and enjoyed a few overnight trips. We don't have private medical insurance because we have found it to be a waste of money and only use IESS. Our medical insurance is a little more expensive because we're considered professionals (teachers). Normally it should be $70 with the dependent paying $11.

We don't have an iPhone with a data plan (just a flip phone -- like Gibs on NCIS) and we use Skype or FaceTime to connect with family and friends. We don't own a car as we live 3 blocks to the main shopping mall (Mall del Rio) and 20 minutes to El Centro. We walk a lot, take the bus and hail an occasional taxi.

Life is simple -- just how we like it!

Jardin del Valle

For others, this budget would NOT work -- not at all. I would say that $1,500 - $2,000 per month would bring you into the category of the majority as 70 percent of expats rent and eat out more often. When Mark and I dine out we never spend more than $12-15 (total) unless it's a special occasion, like a birthday or anniversary. We always split entrees. One thing I didn't include in the budget is our Spanish Intensives which is $80 a month, but it's not part of our regular budget.

I exercise at the park around the corner where they have resistance training equipment, dance therapy at 8:00 p.m. Monday-Friday, and swim at Hosteria Duran once a week for $3.10. We ride our bikes on the weekends and use that time to explore the city.

My $3.10 pool at Hosteria Duran on a busy day!

We are still considered young retirees (59) and won't receive Social Security for another three years, but life has taught us -- "never rely on the future." If we do receive it, we'll triple our income and look forward to more travel. But in the meantime, we're enjoying life and saving too!

The best part: We savor each day to the fullest. I love my writing world and look forward to some more stories coming out this year, including Chicken Soup for the Soul: Power of Forgiveness, and Mark enjoys teaching at CEDEI.  Mark always wanted girls and this cycle he has 16 of them!

Life is still good in paradise!

Until next time...hasta luego!

Little Italy in Cuenca

It's no secret that I love Italy!

We spent six years of our life there and our oldest son was born in Italy and--of course--I married an Italian. That explains part of my passion for Italy and the other is the food.

Ristorante Salumeria Vecchia Modena

There are some great Italian restaurants in Cuenca, but none as authentic as Ristorante Salumeria Vecchia Modena! Chef Massimo takes Italian cuisine to a whole new level. He makes his own pasta, bread, sauces and sausage.

Last Saturday we stopped by for lunch and were warmly greeted--Italian style (kisses on both sides of the cheek). And then we were asked what menu we would like to see (Italian, Spanish or English). I picked Italian and Mark picked the Spanish one. As is our custom, we ordered one entree and split it which was more than enough for us. But our ricotta and spinach filled tortelloni was so wonderful, I found myself wanting more -- but we had to save room for dessert.

Menu outside the restaurant

Salumeria Vecchia Modena is warm and inviting and reminds me of all that I love about Italy (warmth and hospitality). We got to practice our Italian which was so much fun. It was my worst fear coming to Cuenca (knowing I would lose my Italian), but it's nice to know I can practice it to my heart's content at Vecchia Modena.

While we were waiting for our bruschetta, we were served appetizers compliments of the chef. The bread was served warm with meats, cheeses, and relishes. Mark and I visited Modena a few times while we lived in Italy and it all came flooding back (Northern Italian cooking at its best).

Appetizers 

Bruschetta

Tortelloni (Ricotta & Spinach)

And then came the bruschetta semplice (fresh tomatoes with herbs, garlic and drizzled with olive oil). I had to wonder if Chef Massimo had his own secret "pomodori" garden in his backyard because I have yet to find red ripe tomatoes that delicious in Cuenca. We were actually full by the time our tortelloni arrived. There's nothing like fresh pasta and I haven't had anything that delicious since our landlady, Nina, in Italy made fresh tortelloni for me after I gave birth to our firstborn--Jeremy--and that was 33 years ago!

If that wasn't enough, we shared "pie de manzana" that tasted like my mom's apple pie and was served warm (to perfection). Massimo also carries a selection of imported Italian wines and other delicacies to make your dining experience complete.

You can also enjoy Massimo's finest recipes at home as he has a take-out menu that includes his famous sausage, pasta, sauces, pesto and bread. Just to let you know, if you're invited to dinner at the Pombos it won't my Italian cooking. Thanks to Chef Massimo, I'm hanging up my apron!

Ristorante Salumeria Vecchia Modena is located on Juan Jaramillo 8-21 y Luis Cordero. You can call for reservations at: 07-282-5105. They're open Monday-Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Also, be sure to check out their Facebook page for more information and pictures.

Entrance to Salumeria Vecchia Modena

Grazie, Massimo, per un pranzo delizioso!

Chef Massimo

Arrivaderci, 

Connie & Mark