Hosteria Mandala and the "Galapagos"!

One of the things on my bucket list is to go to the Galapagos, but it seems every time we plan to do it something always comes up, so we keep postponing it. But we know a sure vacation is always waiting for us at the Mandala. When we arrived in June for a week, Maja and Aurelio said, "We  moved you to another room, but I think you'll like it!" When she handed us the key, I screamed. The colorful wooden key ring was in the shape of a turtle with the words "Galapagos." I couldn't believe it! Finally our dream of going to the islands came true.

Our spacious bathroom in the Galapagos Suite

We couldn't have been more pleased with our new accommodations. The Galapagos Suite is one of the newest ones at Mandala and comes with its own private veranda with a gorgeous view of the ocean. The bathroom is huge with a walk-in shower and comes with a double bed and a single bed and also a refrigerator to store your snacks and drinks. Most of our days were spent out on the porch, lounging in the colorful hammocks, reading a book and listening to the ocean waves. I can't tell you how many wonderful naps we enjoyed as we listened to the ocean. Just writing about it makes me want to jump back on a bus and head to Puerto Lopez.

Galapagos Suite Overlooking the Ocean

Many folks have asked us how to get to Puerto Lopez and surrounding areas and I have to tell you that there's no easy way to get there, but it's definitely worth it. We break the trip up by heading to Guayaquil on the bus from Cuenca ($8.25). Our favorite bus lines are San Luis Executive and SuperSemeria. They come equipped with bathrooms (male and female), air-conditioning, movies and a water cooler. The seats are super comfortable and recline with lots of leg room. We've taken vans, but find that the bus is better than a plane ride. We took a van once and said "never again." We kept telling the driver to slow down and he went even faster. After a 3-1/2 hour bus ride, we arrived at the Guayaquil Bus Station which is more like a shopping mall with buses on the side. We headed immediately to Sweet and Coffee and enjoyed a Chai Latte and then took a taxi to our hotel. Since we collect Marriott points, we stayed at the Marriott Courtyard in Guayaquil which is next to the San Marino Mall. The taxi ride is about $5.00 from the bus station. The Marriott has a great restaurant, excellent service, a spa, gym and pool. We usually get a corner room which is floor to ceiling glass with amazing views of the city.

San Marino Mall

Sweet and Coffee

Restaurant at Marriott Courtyard

In the morning after breakfast at McCafe across the street from the Marriott, we took a taxi to the bus station. Normally, we take the bus to Jipijapa (3-1/2 hours) and then take a bus to Puerto Lopez. I have to admit that the bus from Jipijapa to Puerto Lopez is not a fun ride. The other option is to take the Ruta  del Sol Route along the coastline which is longer but more scenic (5 hours). Since we have done both, we splurged and took an air-conditioned taxi (not van) from the hotel to Puerto Lopez (3 hours). Our driver was amazing and gave us a guided tour along the way. The cost of a van would have been about 80 dollars and the taxi was $100. When we arrived at the Mandala, we treated our driver to lunch which is always appropriate when you arrive during the lunchtime hour.

We arrived refreshed and ready to enjoy the rest of the day without getting sick from the bus ride! It was worth every "centavo." During this trip we visited our favorite place -- a day at Los Frailes (the most beautiful beach in Ecuador). The Mandala will pack a picnic lunch if you ask them and the trip by mototaxi is $5.00 one way. Los Frailes isn't that easy to get to either, as the dirt road from the main road is fairly bumpy, so if you have a bad back you should hang on for dear life. The ride is about 20 minutes. My idea of paradise would be to build a house on the beach of Los Frailes! This jewel of South America is a must-see and plan to spend the entire day. The park closes at 4:30 p.m. so you'll want to get an early start. Unfortunately, it is best visited on a sunny day which can be unpredictable given the June-July weather on the coast. Most days are cloudy during this time of year, but we hit it on a perfect day -- lots of sun! We hiked up to the look-out point (Mirador) where we enjoyed a breathtaking view of the Ecuadorian coastline. There are micro-climates along the coast so if it's cloudy in Puerto Lopez it can be a spectacularly sunny at  Los Frailes. We've been fortunate to always have sun-filled days a Los Frailes.

Los Frailes

My Los Frailes Dance

View from El Mirador at Los Frailes

The rest of our time on the coast was spent relaxing in our hammocks, going for walks along the beach in Puerto Lopez, and taking a day trip to Montañita. We've heard that you will either love it or hate it. We just happened to love it and had an amazing meal at the Dharma Hotel (the only 5-star hotel in Montañita) with a beachs-side restaurant and great prices. After lunch, we walked through the hotel lobby, enjoyed the poolside view and headed on our way to the point of Montañita where we watched some surfers ride the waves. The bus trip was $2.00 from Puerto Lopez to Montañita and was well worth the trip.

Dharma Hotel at Montañita

The Point

Ceviche Carts

Souvenirs Anyone?

We enjoyed all our meals at the Mandala from breakfast with fresh fruit and homemade bread to five-course dinners at night. And, of course, my favorite indulgence -- coconut gelato! After living in Italy for six years, I give the Mandala five stars for the best ice cream in Ecuador. It was also our favorite "midnight" snack (three scoops and two spoons)!

The Cove at Puerto Lopez

Breakfast at the Mandala

Coconut gelato at the Mandala!

Leaving the Mandala is always sad because Maja and Aurelio are like family to us; Maja is Swiss in origin and Aurelio is Italian so it's the perfect combination. After we said our goodbyes we headed to the bus station in Puerto Lopez by mototaxi and took a "hopper" bus to Olon ($2.00 per person). In Olon we changed buses to the Libertad Peninsular Internacional (CPL) (cost $6.00 per person) and oh what a difference. This bus is is more like riding in an airplane complete with movies, reclining seats, beverage and food service (and I don't mean the vendors who hop on the bus). We took the Ruta del Sol which is much more scenic and we couldn't believe all the new developments -- row after row of gated communities dotting the coastline.

CPL Bus Service complete with "flight steward"

Gated Community near Guayaquil

Sunset at Guayaquil

Ruta del Sol

Lots of Gated Communities

Guayaquil Bus Station

View of Guayaquil from our room at the Marriott

It was about a four-hour bus ride into Guayaquil, which was all smooth sailing with the new road. After we got into the bus station, we took a taxi to the Marriott's and enjoyed a relaxing dinner at McCafe across the street. It was an overcast day in Guayaquil and the humidity was gone, so it was a pleasant and slightly cool evening in the city. The San Marino Mall is within walking distance to the hotel, so we did a little window shopping before we turned in for the night.

I'm not sure how it happened, but when we arrived at the bus terminal we got placed on the Oriental bus instead of San Luis Executive. Never again! The only buses we will ride are San Luis Executive and SuperSemaria. Thankfully, the scenic view over the Cajas on a crystal clear day made up for everything that was lacking on the bus (including a non-functioning bathroom).

 We never imagined that we would ever go to the Galapagos because we thought it was too expensive, but on my birthday (August 15th), we flew to Santa Cruz Island and spent a week. It was a trip of a lifetime and we would like to go back and visit Santa Isabela and Fernandina Islands. The cost was amazingly inexpensive because we got great tickets on TAME Airlines, stayed in a hostel, and ate out at inexpensive restaurants.

In the next few blog posts I'll share about our trip to the Galapagos on the cheap, but I have to say that staying at the Mandala and going to Los Frailes was my favorite vacation of the summer (our winter). There's nothing that can compare to the beach at Los Frailes and it's definitely the most beautiful beach in Ecuador. And the Poor Man's Galapagos (Isla de la Plata) has everything you can see in the Galapagos except for the flamingos, the large tortoises and penguins. In fact, Isla de la Plata is one of the day trips that you can take from the Galapagos!

Stay tuned for more on the Galapagos...

Until next time...hasta luego!

How Sweet it Is -- Hershey's Cocoa!

Cost of Living Update: Hershey's Cocoa $7.39

After living in Pennsylvania for 23 years and having Hershey, PA 20 minutes down the street with chocolate wafting through the air, the real thing is a staple in our family.

So when I saw this at Supermaxi the other day, I grabbed it. Hurry...it's at the Vergel Supermaxi.

We have the Pombo Budget coming out later so you might be interested in the fact that we gave ourselves a "raise" for 2013 (mainly to support my cocoa habit)!

Until next time...hasta luego!

Bad Hair Days!

“Honey, what do you think of my hair?” I asked, not really wanting to know the answer. 

“Hmm…it will grow back—right?” Mark said, half smiling. 

My hubby doesn’t have much sympathy for hair issues; he’s been bald for the past 38 years! 

My “peluquería” experience last Friday—at a new place right down the street from our apartment—was a bold experiment.  My beloved hairdresser on the other side of town (Lucy’s) was all booked up and since we had a special date with friends at Mansion Alcazar that evening, I ventured out of my comfort zone for a “trim.” 

 

Here’s what I forgot: Once you find someone to do your hair the way you like it in Cuenca – stick with that person—no matter what.  I call Lucy the “hair whisperer.” Without even breathing a sound she winks and says, “Ya lo tengo!” (loosely translated: I’ll take care of it!). The female version of “Scissorhands,” she sculpts and shapes your hair in ten minutes with the skill of a neurosurgeon—handing off instruments to five assistants until she has completed her pièce de résistance. I’ve never been disappointed—not once.

That’s where I went wrong! I didn’t wait for Lucy—I proceeded on my own into uncharted territory, armed with a photo which received a quick glance before the scissors took over. My Spanish is at that level where I can talk myself in or out of almost anything, but nothing prepared me for what I saw when I glanced up from the May issue of Hogar Magazine.

¿Qué pasó?”  I shrieked.

 

The hairdresser smiled politely and responded, “¿Le gusta?”

I had a hard time finding the appropriate adjectives that adequately conveyed my thoughts. That’s when I realized that only time, patience and lots of love would see me through this new hair disaster.

All I can say is I’ll be wearing a ponytail a lot in the next six months while waiting for my next Lucy appointment. 

I liken my hair snafu to what we all experience when we come to Ecuador for the first time. Some of us have high expectations – too high—and are easily disappointed. Others come with an open mind and heart, ready for an adventure of a lifetime—looking at every situation as an opportunity to learn and grow. And somewhere in between is a happy medium where you have realistic expectations, you’re patient with yourself and others—taking the bumps as they come—and vowing to do it better the next time.

Life isn’t perfect – not here – not anywhere. And life is really what you make it – hair disasters and all. I’ve actually made friends with my curling iron and blow dryer during the last few days—something I haven’t had to do in decades. 

 

Who knows, this just might be the best thing that ever happened to me! 

Until next time…hasta luego!
 

 

Lucy Estillista

Calle Los Pinos y Ordonez Lasso 

Edificio Los Pinos - Planta Baja 1-D

Telf:  282-3331

We're Back!

It's been two months since we returned to Cuenca and it's been exciting to see all the changes. And I have to say, when you're away for a long period of time Spanish comes back in full force. It's as if we never left!

After we received a $16,000 bill from 1-1/2 hours in the ER while we were in the States, we hopped on the next plane back home to Cuenca. Unfortunately, even with the medical insurance policy we took out, it barely covered anything. So one of the first things we did upon returning to Cuenca was to sign up for another insurance policy -- Confiamed.The $98 we spend per month-- for both of us -- includes: 100% hospitalization for Santa Ines, 80% for other hospitals; prescriptions, outpatient services, life insurance, travel insurance and burial insurance. Try to find something even close to that in the States. We were paying $622 a month and that was for catastrophic only.

There were a "few" things that changed in Cuenca as well:

(1) Mucho más gringos! In February of 2010 when my husband made his first exploratory trip to Cuenca I asked him if there were a lot of gringos in Cuenca. He mentioned that he saw a few, but that was it! I realize that gringos (expats) only make up about 2-4 percent of the population, but they are mostly concentrated in "el centro." We now live on the other side of town -- Primero de Mayo -- where we rarely see any Americans. Today we met friends at Coffee Tree on Calle Larga and I felt like I was in America with all the English speaking folks. What a contrast to what it was just a few short years ago. I guess all the promoting of Cuenca has worked!

(2) Places to Eat. Some of the older establishments like Zoe's are now for rent, but many more restaurants have taken its place. It seems like every week another place opens its doors, only with gringo pricing! We have visited some of our old favorites along with some of the newer places like Oliveto (Italian) on Calle Larga and Windhorse Cafe (Calle Larga and Hermano Miguel) which is a great place to meet and greet. Other popular places are Bananas (where Kookaburra used to be) and San Sebas Cafe which is perfect hangout all during the week.

(3) Higher Prices. When it's difficult to find a cup of coffee for a $1.00, we just laugh. It's all relative. I just remind myself that 1-1/2 hours in the ER is 16K (U.S.) so what's the big deal about $1.25 for a cup of java. Liquor and wine are now being taxed 30 percent, but you can still find great deals at Coral. A bottle of wine there is still $4.25 which is cheaper than the boxed wine -- Clos. Since Mark and I don't drink alcohol we definitely save money compared to our drinking friends who complain almost constantly about the prices. If you imbibe, be prepared to pay the price. Housing prices are also going up, but the Ecuadorians are the ones raising the prices so it's what you're willing to pay. It's still cheaper to rent a house ($250-$300) than a condo, but security is an issue for some. We have looked at some brand new 2 bedroom, 2 bath apartments for $300 unfurnished and some furnished for $400, so don't let anyone gringo gouge you! We love our new neighborhood along Primero de Mayo along the Yununcay River; it has 3 bedrooms, 2 baths with a balcony. We get morning and afternoon sun which makes our home a constant 68-70 degrees. Our friends who live in places that don't have the morning sun, usually need electrical heaters during the day or night. The other nice perk is a 7-minute walk to Mall del Rio. I find reasons to go there about twice a day!

(4) More police presence (everywhere) and the new transit police which have sharp looking uniforms. Most of the police are centered in "el centro," along the rivers and near the parks. Parque de la Madre with its underground parking garage was "under construction" when we left for the States in July, but now it's open and awaiting the unveiling of the planetarium. Video web cams at intersections are now being put in which will crack down on speeding and aggressive driving.

(5) Cuenca keeps making the news!  Publications continue to write articles on the benefits of retiring abroad, including Cuenca. NBC with Ann Curry did a special series on the Amazon with the oil drilling going on there. ABC's Primetime with John Quinones was here last month interviewing expats, and -- of course -- International House Hunters continues to target Cuenca as a hotspot. When we were first exploring Cuenca in 2009 there were a few blogs and tidbits of information on the internet, but today resources abound. It seems like every week there's a new e-book written about this colorful city.

One of the things that has changed drastically since we left is the ease of getting your residency visa at the Ministerio de Exteriores (Zone 6). It's now possible to go through the process without the services of a lawyer and since the "censo" is no longer needed, folks have been able to get their residency visas in a month (or less). The English speaking staff in the office is one of the greatest perks and without the extra red tape of the censo, some are getting their cédula in as little as two months!

It sure is great to be back home!

Until next time...hasta luego!


Connie and Mark

A Tale of Two Worlds

It's been a while since I posted, so I feel the need to say something as you might think we have slipped off the face of the earth. Several of you have e-mailed me and sent such lovely comments which I can't thank you enough for. I'm so very grateful to have you in our lives.

However, I read a comment this morning that was so extremely hurtful, which I won't respond to now as I don't believe that ever does anyone any good.

Suffice to say we are in the States (temporarily) until we can get some personal matters in order. My sister has been ill, I have elderly parents, and a son who needs our help at this time. To go into all of it, would be heartbreaking so I'm going to spare you the details. Sometimes what we want to do and what we have to do are two different things. Many of the expats we know have parents or children who have passed on and, therefore, don't have any ties to the States which is an ideal situation. But for many of us, staying connected is important and we can't always do that from a distance.

I love Cuenca and everything that it has to offer and although not "perfect," it comes pretty close. As far as being an authority on the subject; I don't think anyone is an authority on anything -- really. The e-book I wrote -- intended to be a guide to newcomers -- is exactly why I wrote it. The income I receive on the book is so trivial it would make you laugh! Those of you who give Spanish or English lessons would be much better off.  Or if you want to optimize your websites and make a living off of blogging -- you would do well -- if money is what you're looking for. The book was not intended to make "millions," but to offer help to newcomers as I received so many questions when we arrived in Cuenca, I simply couldn't keep up with it all. Many wrote and told me that they had written several of the prominent bloggers in Cuenca with not even a reply or an acknowledgement. However, Gringos Abroad is an exception. Brian always comes through with helpful advice and great blogging (kudos to you Brian!), so I often refer folks to him.

We "slipped" out of town after our vacation to the coast, which allowed us time to regroup before our trip to the States, which was supposed to be for a few months. We left our beloved Mocha in the hands of a wonderful expat couple who gives us updates and videos weekly and we send care packages on a regular basis. We like to think of them as surrogate parents who provide a loving home filled with joy. We made the transition over a month's time with regular visits until we knew that Mocha felt completely at home.

Rumors seem to swirl in Cuenca which happens anywhere you live, but don't listen to everything you hear. The truth seems to get distorted somewhere along the way which is never positive or helpful.

As a writer, I always share both sides of the story and thankfully I can do that wherever I live. Many travel writers have never been to the places that they write about and yet it is useful and helpful information. I feel fortunate in that I have actually lived in Cuenca for more than two years and continue to keep in contact with friends who update me on the happenings there.

Interestingly enough, we have used our Spanish more in California than we did in Cuenca and I'm continuing my studies at Cuesta College and hope to master it. We even go to a Latino Church, so we feel more involved in the Hispanic community.

At present, I'm on a speaking/book signing tour with Chicken Soup for the Soul (four books have recently come out) and I'm using my expertise in that area to help raise funds for Making Strides Against Breast Cancer. All proceeds of the book go to the American Cancer Society (100 percent of the profits). I write for a variety of publications and journals (even Italy), where we lived for six years. Although we don't live there now (maybe in the future), it means that I can still write about a place even though I don't physically live there.

We are enjoying the Central Coast of California where we honeymooned 37 years ago and San Luis Obispo is called the "happiest place on earth." The past two months we haven't seen a drop of rain with sun and blue skies every day. We take long walks along the beach and enjoy spectacular sunsets. We found an apartment on an estate with a sprawling 5 bedroom 5 bath house -- totally private and secluded. Our rent is $895 per month with all utilities paid and fully furnished. That is about what we paid for our first condo in the Palermo Building in Cuenca over two years ago. We still have our medical insurance in Cuenca and also took out a policy in the States with Anthem B/Cross ($500) for both of us which covers everything. Although it's not $98 like it was in Cuenca, our policy there was only for $10,000. Our policy here covers up to one million, so we're doubly covered.

As far as groceries, we find it's cheaper to eat in the States. We shop Fresh and Easy ($25 a week) and the good old Dollar Tree is amazing; I forgot how wonderful it was to pick up everything for a $1.00 (literally). The best part is we can enjoy Avila Beach, Pismo Beach, Shell Beach and Morro Bay -- all within 15 minutes from our house. Eating out is more affordable as well, which totally shocked us. Last night we dined at the Cliff's Resort (coconut shrimp and build a spud) and our total bill came to $18.00. Because portion sizes are so huge in the States, we often just split an appetizer and sometimes walk out the door for less than $12.00 at 5-star resorts!

We were fortunate in that we found a perfect rental, an economical car, and enjoy walking on the beach every day. I think I turned my mountain man into a beach guy -- at last!

There are many affordable ways to live all around the world. We just happen to live in a secluded estate area with 30 homes -- all on 6-acre lots with "granny" units or apartments attached. We already decided we never want to buy again. Mark works part-time, which he did in Cuenca (as we both did, actually), and so that part isn't new.

If you ever find yourself in the position where you have to come back to the States to take care of business, there are extremely affordable options even in the most expensive areas. We found our deal on Craigslist.

I plan on return visits to Cuenca to keep the book updated and to visit friends. However, this will be my last post on this blog -- all other updates can be found at www.thebestoflivingandretiringinecuador.com. I will also be doing a blog on Central Coast Living as well which will highlight some of the affordable ways you can enjoy five-star living on a one-star budget.

Hasta luego...back to the beach!

Connie and Mark