Paradise Lost!

It goes without saying that we love Cuenca, but as California "kids" we also love the ocean. Believe me, it was a hard decision where to buy -- the coast or in Cuenca. But my hubby convinced me that paradise is just a few hours away. I really didn't buy that because we've always taken the four-hour bus ride to Guayaquil, spent the night there and then took another bus to Jipijapa the next day and Mr. Toad's wild ride to Puerto Lopez. It was a two-day journey!

Mark was determined to convince me that it could be done in five hours! And guess what? He was right!

This is how we did it:

We took TAME Airlines (total of $167.56 for both of us) to Guayaquil. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at Juan Valdez Cafe at the airport in Guayaquil after a 45 minute plane flight and then took a $3.00 taxi ride to the Terminal Terrestre (bus station). Actually the bus station looks more like a shopping mall with buses on the side.

TAME Airlines to Guayaquil

Juan Valdez at Guayaquil Airport

Tickets are bought on the ground floor of the terminal so we headed to CLP gate #83 (Cooperativa Libertad Peninsular) to Olon (Ruta del Sol). The cost of the ticket was $5.75 per person. Fortunately, when we purchased the tickets the bus was leaving so we took the escalator up to the third level and got on the bus as the last passengers. Our luggage was boarded and we were given tags to retrieve them.

First Floor of Guayaquil Bus Station -- CLP #83

Tickets for the CLP -- hang on to them. They will collect them on the bus!

Terminal Terrestre in Guayaquil -- Shopping Mall with buses on the side

Thoroughly modern CLP bus line with movie and snacks

Luggage retrieval tags for CLP -- hang on to them! 

Crazy Montañita where most everyone gets off!

We always enjoy the people watching in Montañita.

And more passengers get off at the popular Montañita.

End of the Road -- Olon (a few kilometers from Montañita).

Olon Bus Station (final stop). 

 You're in for a treat with the CLP bus line. It's more like a plane ride with air conditioning, movies, food and beverage service and a steward that keeps everyone happy! There's even a display that tells you when the bathrooms are occupied. The bus ride goes along the Ruta del Sol (Spondylus Route) so there's lots to see. The trip takes approximately two hours to Olon. But first the bus stops in Montañita where nearly the entire bus empties out. Next and final stop is Olon (a few kilometers north of Montañita).

From Olon we waved down a taxi (total cost $20) to take us approximately 50 minutes to Puerto Lopez, right to the doorstep of the Mandala Hosteria. Our taxista was so warm and friendly; he gave us a talking tour as we passed by several points of interest. You can also catch a bus in Montañita (the green one) that will take you to the new bus terminal in Puerto Lopez. But our goal was to see how fast we could make it to Puerto Lopez. It was just a little bit past noon when we arrived at the Mandala. I was in shock! We did it (one day -- 5 hours).

Since we arrived so early I was confused the rest of the day. I kept thinking we needed to eat dinner when we hadn't even eaten lunch. Of course, I wanted to head right to Los Frailes (20 minutes north) because it was a sunny day. Normally during June, July and August it's overcast, cloudy and very few sunsets. However, because of the El Niño effect, there was sun every day, gorgeous sunsets and no humidity. In other words, it was paradise!

Private Beach at Mandala

Our balcony overlooking the Ocean -- Galapagos Suite 

Galapagos Suite 

First of many sunsets at Mandala

Mandala's Private Beach

Entrance to Mandala

View of the Ocean from our Balcony

After settling into our room (Galapagos Suite) -- with a gorgeous view of the ocean -- we walked to the Point and then had dinner at the Mandala (Shrimp in Garlic Sauce -- amazing!). We turned in early because the next day we were going to Los Frailes and Paradise Lost (aka Playa de Pombo).

Los Frailes from the Mirador

Paradise Lost!

Until next time...hasta luego!


Connie & Mark

Fourth Year Anniversary in Cuenca!

Arrival in Cuenca Four Years Ago

It's hard to believe, but it's been four years since we arrived in Cuenca (June 4, 2010). There are so many highlights it's difficult to list our favorite moments, but one thing we can say for sure--Ecuador is now home to us!

This week the book Chicken Soup for the Soul: Home Sweet Home includes the story of our journey to Cuenca (Finally Home) and I think that just about sums it up. Not that everything has been smooth sailing along the way! The first big hurdle was to get our residency visa (cedula) which only took three weeks, then on to language school and finding permanent housing.

In September 2013 we finally bought a condo which was a defining moment for us; it meant that we were settling down and making Cuenca home. We love our new place and it's perfect for us: two bedrooms, two baths and an open living room/kitchen area with a 360 view and it's not even a penthouse!

We actually had stopped looking for a place because everything was over 100K, but we found something for 68K which was right within our budget. The building is brand new, is handicapped accessible, has an elevator and 24-hour security which were musts for us, along with views of the city, Cajas, and Turi. There are two master bedrooms with private baths on opposite sides of the apartment which is unique. Most Ecuadorian homes have all the bedrooms in the same hallway. We're three blocks from the Yununcay River and three blocks to Mall del Rio so we have the best of both worlds. A block away we can catch five different bus lines so we don't feel the need for a car (yet!). We're still three years away from Social Security, so we're holding out for that.

I've taken up growing orchids!

We have lots of light with morning and afternoon sun. We chose the colors of the coast!

Sunsets are magical in Cuenca. 

Living Room with lots of light.

View from the kitchen window -- Tres Cupolas

Every turn there's another view!

Rainbows, Sunsets and Fireworks keep us running from window to window.

View out the shower window!

Friday and Saturday Nights -- Fireworks in all Directions!

We were fortunate in that the Coopera fiasco happened about the same time we were looking for a place and because some folks lost some or all their money, there were opportunities to jump in for housing. Those who lost everything had to back out on places that they had reserved. It worked to our advantage as the apartment we have was made available. In less than a year, our place now sells for 85K so we feel we made a good investment. Our Ecuadorian friends kept saying, "Why are you throwing your money away on rent when you could be investing it in land or property?" There are other reasons as well, which I'll explain in another post. But we're thankful we made the investment and we have no regrets whatsoever.

We purchased our place without a realtor and went through the contractor of our building which was a seamless process. Furnishing our place was easy as well as it's only 850 square feet. We found excellent deals on our appliances through friends and our most expensive purchase was a washer/dryer combination like we had in Italy which is my favorite appliance. In fact, I find reasons for doing laundry which has never happened before!

We're now working on our citizenship which is going slowly. We needed updated birth certificates (our originals are no longer valid). We finally have the form from vital statistics which we have to take to the US Consulate in Guyaquil to have validated. Then the certification and apostille process from the Secretary of State in California. We'll have a family member do that for us. All the other documents we have in order, but we're not in a big hurry. Ecuador is one of the few countries that allows for dual citizenship, so we're taking advantage of that. In another post I will go into the advantages of going for citizenship.

Some of the biggest changes we've seen in four years are: improved transportation in the way of the tranvia (electric train which is finally under construction); transportation police and video surveillance at intersections; the Arenal which is the bus terminal near the Ferie Libre which has cut down on the number of buses running through El Centro; new bridges, wider streets, and our favorite--bike lanes! Mark and I are now bikers and love our Saturday and Sunday rides down Avenida Solano and Doce de Abril.

My Panama Jack Bike which is quite a talking piece!

Tres de Noviembre Bike Trail

New restaurants seem to pop up daily and there's something for every palette. We now have a McDonald's (actually 2-1/2) which I never thought I'd see and seven Subway locations which are scattered through the city. No Starbucks yet, but I'm not ruling that out. For the most part change has been welcome, including the renovation of Parque de la Madre with the new planetarium.

We still have our favorites restaurants, but it's fun to try new places. Cuenca is definitely more metropolitan with an influx of Italians, French and Chinese (to name a few).

Our favorite place to dine is Mansion Alcazar

Mark is still teaching English as a Second Language at CEDEI and enjoys the structure of his week (as a former manager at UPS it's hard to let go of a time schedule). We have breaks every cycle and have summer vacation so we're able to do some traveling Our next vacation will be along the coast -- Los Frailes and Mandala in Puerto Lopez (our favorite place!).

Our favorite vacation spot -- Los Frailes

End of Year Pizza Party

Best of all, family is finally coming to visit! My mom who is in her 80's will be traveling here in September along with my sister. And our older son and his girlfriend will be here for Christmas. It's not cheap to travel to the States and after four years of us going back and forth, it's now their turn. Our last trip to Pennsylvania cost us $7,000, so if you're thinking about Ecuador as your retirement destination you need to include a travel fund for going back to the States!

Our budget is easier to calculate because we no longer pay for rent (which is a blessing!). Rent was the biggest chunk in our budget and now we're able to save that money each month. Food prices have increased, but since we adhere to a plant based diet we haven't felt the pinch. We eat out occasionally, but prefer to make meals at home. I've lost 15 pounds in the last two months just by eating fresh fruits and vegetables which are plentiful in Ecuador (pennies on the dollar). I'm now off all medication except one and my blood tests are all normal, so we'll be sticking to our new way of eating.

Veggies are cheap and plentiful in Ecuado

Although retirement in Ecuador has been an excellent choice for us, it's definitely not for everyone! On our four-year anniversary, we count our blessings. One of the biggest advantages has been affordable healthcare. The care is excellent and we are doubly covered with private and public insurance (IESS). We use both and have been extremely pleased with the quality of care.

Hospital del Rio 

Four years passes quickly and we're thankful that we can call Cuenca home!

Santo Domingo

Glorious Sunset from our Bedroom

Painted Skies

Flower in the Cajas

Home from the Air!

Until next time...hasta luego!


Connie & Mark 

Passport Renewal and Tangara

When we started on this adventure to Cuenca three years ago (and all the paperwork that went with it), we never thought we would  live to see the day when we had to renew our passports. But it happened a couple of weeks ago and we had to take a trip to Guayaquil to renew Mark's passport -- mine doesn't expire for another six years.

Normally when we travel to Guayaquil, we stay at the Courtyard Marriott or HM International, but this time we decided to do something different and stay on the the Malecon del Salado side of Guayaquil at the Tangara Guest House.

The two Malecons: Malecon 2000 and  Malecón del Salado are located on opposite ends of 9 de Octubre. If I had to choose which one I liked better, it would definitely be Malecón del Salado because you can see a sunset and it's salt water (not muddy water from the Guayas). And at night there's nothing better than to watch the bridges light up and stroll along the river, have a bite to eat at one of the many restaurants, and feel the cool ocean breeze. The mangroves, the salt water and the boats of the Malecón made me think we were back in the Galapagos. We had such a great time enjoying the Malecón that I actually forgot what brought us to Guayaquil in the first place (PASSPORT!).

Malecon del Salado at Sunset

Malecon Harbor

Looking toward 9 de Octubre along the Malecon

The Malecon all lit up!

More Restaurants along the Malecon

Malecon Salado

One of the many restaurants along the Malecon

We enjoyed our stay at the Tangara Guest House and would definitely go there again. The owner, Antonio, speaks English and made sure that we were comfortable in our room and explained how to get to the Malecon. The Tangara is a block from the University of Guayaquil and thanks to a shortcut through the university, you can arrive at the Malecón del Salado in about five minutes (walking). Antonio also honored the voucher we received from Despegar, so our total bill came to $56 which included a wonderful "desayuno."

Courtyard at Tangara

Desayuno at Tangara with fresh juice, eggs, toast, fruit and choice of beverages.

Courtyard at Tangara

The following morning after a relaxing time in the courtyard of the Tangara, the staff called a taxi and took us to the Consulate.

The passport renewal process starts online at at the Consulate General website. You go to US Citizen Services and click on passports (16 years and older). Mark printed off the DS-82 form and filled it out. He printed two copies just in case (we've learned the hard way that it's always better to have more than less). The cost is $110 which you pay when you're at the Consulate.

You will need to make an appointment online at the website and print out the confirmation form (very important!). We made our appointment at 1:00 p.m. so we could have the morning free to explore Guayaquil. If anyone is going with you to the Consulate, you will need to put their name on the form as well (as a guest).

You will need to bring the following items with you to Guayaquil:
*Old passport.
*Passport photos 2 x 2, color, white background (matte).
*Application form filled out (DS-82).
*Money ($110) in cash.
*Appointment confirmation sheet.

Address of the Consulate:
U.S. Consulate General
9 de Octubre y Garcia Moreno
Guayaquil, Ecuador                                                 

The Consulate is located on 9 de Octubre right next to the Oro Verde Hotel. I got so excited when I saw the American flag that I whipped out my camera and took a picture. I suggest that you don't do that. It was the day before 9/11 and it was not a good time to take photos of the Consulate; there was heightened security and the guards "reminded" me to put my camera away! After that close encounter we headed to the first checkpoint.

Oro Verde Hotel next to Consulate

Sidewalk Cafe on 9 de Octubre

Hint: Do not bring anything with you except your documents; leave everything else at your hotel. I always carry hand sanitizer, my camera, and a "few" other things. I'm not sure what they thought of my Bath and Body pink grapefruit hand sanitizer, but evidently they were suspicious. I was asked to pour some on my hands, which I did and then they motioned to my chest, so I rubbed it on my neck and chest and then proceeded to rub some on Mark's bald head. I guess if we were going down, we were going together. Strangely, that didn't satisfy them, so I put some more on my hands.

Silly me! I forgot that my passport was located around my neck in a pink passport holder and "yes" that is what they wanted, so I handed it over. If you are a guest, you will need to bring your passport as well. My camera also received an inspection and the battery was removed.

Next came the wand lady (just like at the airport), so be sure to take everything out of your pockets. We were then directed to pass through the metal detector. My "confiscated" items were put in a box on the metal table -- ready to be retrieved on the other side. When entering the Consulate doors, the guard took my items (in the box) and I was  given a number that corresponded to the "casillero" where my items were placed. My reward for being a good citizen was a clip-on name badge that said "ACS" (American Citizen Services).

Once inside we were directed to go upstairs to the waiting room and listened for Mark's name to be called. When his name was announced, Mark went up to the reception window and turned in his application and surrendered his old passport. A few questions were asked and we were told to pay the $110 downstairs and bring back the two receipts. After turning in the receipts, we waited for about 5 minutes. They called us back to the receiving window and told us everything was okay and that a new passport would be issued in 10 days with e-mail confirmation. We went back downstairs, turned in my "key" and retrieved my belongings and were escorted to the exit area.

You will get an e-mail confirmation letting you know that your passport is ready to be picked up. But one of the representatives e-mailed us and said he would bring Mark's passport to Cuenca personally as he was doing a presentation at the school where we teach English. What a nice surprise!

After our appointment at the Consulate we celebrated with a chai latte across the street at Sweet and Coffee before we headed back to the bus station. We also ran into a few friends in Guayaquil and ended up having lunch together; it's a small world!

It was only 24 hours, but it seemed like a mini-vacation. We had a great trip to the Malecón, encountered some excitement at the Consulate, and enjoyed the ride back home through the Cajas while I got caught up on some Kindle reading.

Cajas!

Rainbow through the clouds...

Bus at night -- "Cuenca Taxi"

The first time we've taken the bus at night -- a whole new experience!

Of note, Mark picked up his passport from the Consulate folks who came to CEDEI school, but the residency page of his visa will need to be replaced in his new passport. For that we will need to make an appointment at the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores. It seems that you just can't rip out the old residency page and put it in your new passport. We'll keep you posted as to that process as well.

The passport renewal process was certainly easier than getting our residency visas and a lot more fun!

Until next time...hasta luego!

 






One of the books that I read while on the bus to Guayaquil was The Mapmaker's Wife which is an intriguing read. You'll gain a lot of rich history into Ecuador and the Amazon.